I had a problem first time i used this unit because the handle bearings is not working fine. I tried oiling it or loosen the nut but still its the same. I took off the screw and learn that the only thing i need is a couple of lock washer from both end of the bearings to make them play smoothly. now its working like the original glidecam. Maybe the production just forgot to put some washers to this unit or what but i solved my problem.
Wansview Wireless IP Pan/Tilt/ Night Vision Internet
The camera I got was branded EasyN, but the box art shown on the product info page matches the box I got. Some people claim they have Foscam, Apexis, Hootoo, etc. brand, but I think it's the same camera branded in different brands to accommodate different markets. I admit, it would HELP if you are tech savvy or at least have some knowledge in network configuration to expedite the set up and get the camera running, but that's not required. This camera isn't exactly the most fool-proof camera in the market, but its feature make up for it.
The instructions are readable, albeit choppy due to the poor Chinese-to-English translation. OK here's the deal. I'm going to write a lengthy semi-review, semi-how-to for this awesome IP camera seeing the need for an instruction for Mac users. First of all, I am a Mac user running on OS X 10.7.2 Lion and I got this bad boy up and running within an hour. For all you Mac users out there, you'll need to have temporary access to a Windows machine.
If you don't have a Windows machine, see UPDATE 4 at the end of this review then follow steps 3 and forward. I'm writing this review under the presumption that the typical user has no knowledge of MAC access control list or WiFi DHCP client table from your router to set-up the camera it via WiFi. You need it to run the application that allows you to detect and configure the camera's IP. Unfortunately, this application is written for Windows only. But that's all you need a Windows machine for. Once you configure the camera's IP address to work with your LAN, then you can use the web interface and configure a whole sleuth of other options, including the alarm feature, FTP, Mail and other. So without adieu, let's do this!
I've taken screenshots to help accommodate the mini guide below. So check out the user-submitted images for 7+ images I've added for directions on how to proceed. The instruction is for connecting the camera to a LAN I chose this route because my WiFi network is secured over several layers of security (Sonic Wall fire wall, MAC control, etc.) and it's just easier to get the cam up and running through the LAN.
0.) Connect your IP camera to your LAN via ethernet and plug in the power supply.
1.) Get access to a Windows machine. I dual-booted to Windows Vista via Boot Camp. Make sure this Windows machine has access to your LAN.
2.) Run the application with the file name, DevFind.exe you can find it in the directory, /EasyN F2 series IP camera installation CD/software. My included install disc was a blank CD-R disc!!! so I had to download the CD content ZIP from the manufacturer's web site: "easyntech . com / ShowDownload . asp ? id = 34" you can download the manuals in PDF format from the site too).
3.) Run the DevFind.exe to locate your camera, then modify the camera's IP address so that it matches your LAN's IP range structure, subnet mask and gateway. The default IP address assigned to the camera should be indicated in a silver sticker located underneath the camera. The same sticker can also be found on the exterior of the box. Basically, the default IP should be something along the line of 192 . 168 . 1 . 126 and access port 81 (it could be different). Since my LAN's IP range structure is 192.168.0.x, I have assigned the camera an IP address of 192 . 168 . 0 . 155. I changed out the default port of 81 to 310. Understand me so far? Once you got that down, click on the "APPLY" button to make the changes.
4.) Click on the "OTHERS" tab under the Equipment Information field. Take note of the information located in the "MAC" field, it should be a 12 letter/number string of characters.
5.) If you have access controlled enabled in your router, then follow this step. If not, you can skip. What access control means is you only allow certain network devices permission to connect to your LAN. Even if the connecting client knows your WEP/WPA/WPA2 password, they still will not be able to connect to your Wi-Fi unless their device is registered to the access control list. The unique identifier of the network device is its MAC address. If you have this enabled, then add the camera's MAC address you've just jotted down in the previous step to your router's access control list. The convention should be XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX where X is a number or a character from the alphabet. So if your camera's MAC address is 00A8F700F341, enter it as 00:A8:F7:00:F3:41 Update and restart your router after entering. If you have the means to reserve IP address designation on your router, I would do so. Since I assigned the camera an IP address of 192 . 168 . 0 . 155, I would reserve this address on the router to the camera's MAC address so that this IP doesn't get reassigned by the DHCP to another network device by accident.
6.) You'll definitely need to port-forward your camera if you plan to remote view from outside. In your router setup, go to the "Port Forwarding" page it's usually under "Advanced setup" or something similar. Since I assigned the camera a custom port of 310, I would enter the port range starting and ending at 310 to be forwarded to the camera's IP address of 192 . 168 . 0 . 155 .
7.) Next, you should be able to punch in the IP address and port number you've assigned to the camera as noted on step #3 onto your web browser and launch the web-based utility app e.g. 192 . 168 . 0 . 155 : 310. When you first try to access the camera through a web browser, it will ask you for a username and a password. This information is located underneath the camera and also on the box. It's usually "admin" for the username and a blank password, but double check your equipment.
8.) Select the viewing method; if you are using IE select the first link, if you're using Firefox, select the second link, etc.
9.) View your camera, control it, etc
10.) Click on the OPTIONS icon to access the web-based configuration app, or punch in 192 . 168 . 0 . 155 : 310 /admin2.htm to access it directly
11.) Configure all sorts of other goodies, such as FTP access, Email, alarm, DDNS, Alias, etc.
12.) If you want to view your camera from remote (i.e. outside of your home network), assuming you have a static IP, then you need to punch in your ISP assigned IP address, followed by your port. You can find out your ISP assigned address by going into your router and looking at the information located in the "basic setting" area. Thanks to daniel for pointing this out. If you have a dynamic IP address, then I recommend signing up for a dynamic DNS server, such as dyndns.org. Be sure to update the DDNS area of the web utility with the appropriate login credential to your dynamic DNS provider.
I'm working on the wireless LAN setup, so I'll edit this review once I have a sure fire way to set it up so I can append a simple how-to to help folks get started. Any question, just comment. Again, this is from a Mac OS X Lion 10.7.2 user (at the time of this writing). *** Wireless instruction added, see Update 5 below ***
Since I am a Mac user, the IP Camera utility is USELESS (unless you're using Parallel or Fusion to run Windows). I rely solely on the web-based interface to view the camera. It works like a charm so far. The camera's pan and tilt feature is SUPER fast. Of course, that's because I set it at the fastest level; you can set it according to your taste. You can set up the Alarm feature so that its motion detector can pick up motion contingent on how sensitive you set the camera to behave. Once the alarm mode is triggered, you can further instruct the camera to upload screenshots at set intervals to an FTP server and/or email you the screenshots to an email address (see pictures). You certainly don't need to be Cisco or A+ certified to get this camera to work.
EDIT: As for scheduling the motion-detector, it works if you set it correctly. From the web-configuration utility, click on "Alarm Service Setting." Set the sensitivity level, etc., then check if you want to have the camera email you and/or take screenshots of events triggering the alarm and upload to a designated FTP server. I checked both. For the scheduler, check "Scheduler" to bring up a week calendar with hour. Click on the hours you'd like the camera to trigger its motion-detector, then press "Set". Note that the alarm mode won't go into affect after about 30 seconds after rebooting. I didn't know this at first and thought this feature was defunct from factory. I'm guessing the camera is giving you time to evacuate the premise before arming itself. The scheduling calendar is very cumbersome, so it's probably easier to just turn on or turn off the motion detector.
Also since you need Internet Explorer to use the ActiveX enabled web interface, Mac users will luck out. The IE version of the web interface allows you to record video (AVI format), take a snapshot, listen and talk through your camera, along with the ability to command multiple cameras. It also appears that the remote on/off switch works with the ActiveX IE control interface, but doens't for the other interfaces. I haven't had time to fully test them.
UPDATE 2: I live in an apartment complex where I gave permission to the leasing staff to deliver packages into my apartment when I am not home to sign for it. I set up the camera for motion detection and it picked up the delivery, snap a few shots and emailed to me in addition to continuously snapping shots in 5 seconds interval and uploading it to the FTP server. Simply awesome for $5x.00.
I'm so impressed with this camera I'll be purchasing two more units, possibly in white so they can blend with the white walls.
UPDATE 3: For WiFi, make sure your router is 802.11 a/b/g compatible and set at 2.4ghz frequency. The IP camera will not pick up your router if it's set at 5 ghz at N-mode only. For MAXIMUM WiFi performance, do not obstruct the WiFi antenna. Swivel it downward if you have to as the antenna is not as sophisticated and is extremely sensitive to obstruction.
UPDATE 4: Thanks to Jean-Pierre Ciudad, you can download a program called "IP Scanner for Mac" from cnet.com. It will detect the IP address of the IP camera seamlessly. Once the IP address is noted, simply punch it in your web browser to make the subsequent changes. First thing first is to change the IP address for the camera to match your network. You can find this under "Basic Network Setting" of the web interface no need for a Windows machine.
UPDATE 5 How to configure your camera for wireless access: After playing around with the wireless set up, I think I've found a sure-fire way to set up your IP Cam for wireless connection. The first thing you need to do is connect it to the LAN via Ethernet and configure your camera for LAN access, basically if you've got your IP Cam up and running by following my instructions above or through your own mean, you're ready to go wireless. Now the trick here is to keep in mind that when you go wireless, your wireless router will assign the IP Cam a new IP address via DHCP, meaning most likely you will not be able to access the camera at the LAN-assigned IP address. I think this is the main reason if not THE reason why a lot of folks are having a hard time getting the IP Cam to connect wirelessly. Also keep in mind that the IP Cam is only compatible at 802.11 a/b/g at 2.4ghz only. Not a problem with dual-band Time Capsule but you may need to configure your router accordingly.
So back to the setup procedure, once you get your IP Cam up and running on the LAN, go to your IP Cam's web UI and click on "Wireless Lan Settings" on the left navigation menu to configure the IP Cam for wireless access.
* Make sure the "Using Wireless Lan" box is checked.
* Under "SSID", enter your full wireless network name. You may click "Scan" multiple times until your wireless network shows up on the list (you may need to scan up to 4 times before it appears) or you can just type in the name of the SSID of your network. If you have Access Control List enabled, be sure to add the IP Cam's MAC address to the ACL.
* For "Network Type", select "Infra"
* Under "Encryption", select your security type. It's usually WPA2 (AES), but again, you need to do the research on your own network.
* For "Share Key", type in your wireless network access password.
Click SET and let the IP Cam reboot (30 secs). Next disconnect the Ethernet cable from the IP Cam and power down the camera, wait 30 seconds. Reconnect the power supply but leave the Ethernet cable unplugged and wait another 30 seconds for the IP Cam to boot up. Now your IP Cam should be connected to your wireless network. Run IP Scanner 2.5 or above to discover the newly assigned WAN IP address on the network (you can find this in your router's DHCP list via your router's admin page as well); this should be the new wireless IP address for your IP Camera. If the WAN IP for the IP Cam is 192 . 168 . 0 . 4, then you'll need to punch in 192 . 168 . 0 . 4 : 80 (or 192 . 168 . 0 . 4 : 81) to regain access to the web UI again, your LAN assigned IP for the camera will usually no longer work. If you've changed the default access port for the IP Camera to something else other than 81, be sure to use the custom port instead when accessing the new wireless IP address. If you plan on a 100% wireless connection you'll need to reconfigure your port forwarding settings, reserved IP setting (if you did this for LAN), access port, etc. Proceed with your WiFi configuration as if you're configuring the IP Cam for the first time on LAN. If you're considering an outdoor IP camera solution, be sure to check out my Agasio M105I Outdoor Wireless Wifi Waterproof Bullet IP Camera with IR-Cut Filter, Two-way Audio, Night-Vision, Email & review.
The instructions are readable, albeit choppy due to the poor Chinese-to-English translation. OK here's the deal. I'm going to write a lengthy semi-review, semi-how-to for this awesome IP camera seeing the need for an instruction for Mac users. First of all, I am a Mac user running on OS X 10.7.2 Lion and I got this bad boy up and running within an hour. For all you Mac users out there, you'll need to have temporary access to a Windows machine.
If you don't have a Windows machine, see UPDATE 4 at the end of this review then follow steps 3 and forward. I'm writing this review under the presumption that the typical user has no knowledge of MAC access control list or WiFi DHCP client table from your router to set-up the camera it via WiFi. You need it to run the application that allows you to detect and configure the camera's IP. Unfortunately, this application is written for Windows only. But that's all you need a Windows machine for. Once you configure the camera's IP address to work with your LAN, then you can use the web interface and configure a whole sleuth of other options, including the alarm feature, FTP, Mail and other. So without adieu, let's do this!
I've taken screenshots to help accommodate the mini guide below. So check out the user-submitted images for 7+ images I've added for directions on how to proceed. The instruction is for connecting the camera to a LAN I chose this route because my WiFi network is secured over several layers of security (Sonic Wall fire wall, MAC control, etc.) and it's just easier to get the cam up and running through the LAN.
0.) Connect your IP camera to your LAN via ethernet and plug in the power supply.
1.) Get access to a Windows machine. I dual-booted to Windows Vista via Boot Camp. Make sure this Windows machine has access to your LAN.
2.) Run the application with the file name, DevFind.exe you can find it in the directory, /EasyN F2 series IP camera installation CD/software. My included install disc was a blank CD-R disc!!! so I had to download the CD content ZIP from the manufacturer's web site: "easyntech . com / ShowDownload . asp ? id = 34" you can download the manuals in PDF format from the site too).
3.) Run the DevFind.exe to locate your camera, then modify the camera's IP address so that it matches your LAN's IP range structure, subnet mask and gateway. The default IP address assigned to the camera should be indicated in a silver sticker located underneath the camera. The same sticker can also be found on the exterior of the box. Basically, the default IP should be something along the line of 192 . 168 . 1 . 126 and access port 81 (it could be different). Since my LAN's IP range structure is 192.168.0.x, I have assigned the camera an IP address of 192 . 168 . 0 . 155. I changed out the default port of 81 to 310. Understand me so far? Once you got that down, click on the "APPLY" button to make the changes.
4.) Click on the "OTHERS" tab under the Equipment Information field. Take note of the information located in the "MAC" field, it should be a 12 letter/number string of characters.
5.) If you have access controlled enabled in your router, then follow this step. If not, you can skip. What access control means is you only allow certain network devices permission to connect to your LAN. Even if the connecting client knows your WEP/WPA/WPA2 password, they still will not be able to connect to your Wi-Fi unless their device is registered to the access control list. The unique identifier of the network device is its MAC address. If you have this enabled, then add the camera's MAC address you've just jotted down in the previous step to your router's access control list. The convention should be XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX where X is a number or a character from the alphabet. So if your camera's MAC address is 00A8F700F341, enter it as 00:A8:F7:00:F3:41 Update and restart your router after entering. If you have the means to reserve IP address designation on your router, I would do so. Since I assigned the camera an IP address of 192 . 168 . 0 . 155, I would reserve this address on the router to the camera's MAC address so that this IP doesn't get reassigned by the DHCP to another network device by accident.
6.) You'll definitely need to port-forward your camera if you plan to remote view from outside. In your router setup, go to the "Port Forwarding" page it's usually under "Advanced setup" or something similar. Since I assigned the camera a custom port of 310, I would enter the port range starting and ending at 310 to be forwarded to the camera's IP address of 192 . 168 . 0 . 155 .
7.) Next, you should be able to punch in the IP address and port number you've assigned to the camera as noted on step #3 onto your web browser and launch the web-based utility app e.g. 192 . 168 . 0 . 155 : 310. When you first try to access the camera through a web browser, it will ask you for a username and a password. This information is located underneath the camera and also on the box. It's usually "admin" for the username and a blank password, but double check your equipment.
8.) Select the viewing method; if you are using IE select the first link, if you're using Firefox, select the second link, etc.
9.) View your camera, control it, etc
10.) Click on the OPTIONS icon to access the web-based configuration app, or punch in 192 . 168 . 0 . 155 : 310 /admin2.htm to access it directly
11.) Configure all sorts of other goodies, such as FTP access, Email, alarm, DDNS, Alias, etc.
12.) If you want to view your camera from remote (i.e. outside of your home network), assuming you have a static IP, then you need to punch in your ISP assigned IP address, followed by your port. You can find out your ISP assigned address by going into your router and looking at the information located in the "basic setting" area. Thanks to daniel for pointing this out. If you have a dynamic IP address, then I recommend signing up for a dynamic DNS server, such as dyndns.org. Be sure to update the DDNS area of the web utility with the appropriate login credential to your dynamic DNS provider.
I'm working on the wireless LAN setup, so I'll edit this review once I have a sure fire way to set it up so I can append a simple how-to to help folks get started. Any question, just comment. Again, this is from a Mac OS X Lion 10.7.2 user (at the time of this writing). *** Wireless instruction added, see Update 5 below ***
Since I am a Mac user, the IP Camera utility is USELESS (unless you're using Parallel or Fusion to run Windows). I rely solely on the web-based interface to view the camera. It works like a charm so far. The camera's pan and tilt feature is SUPER fast. Of course, that's because I set it at the fastest level; you can set it according to your taste. You can set up the Alarm feature so that its motion detector can pick up motion contingent on how sensitive you set the camera to behave. Once the alarm mode is triggered, you can further instruct the camera to upload screenshots at set intervals to an FTP server and/or email you the screenshots to an email address (see pictures). You certainly don't need to be Cisco or A+ certified to get this camera to work.
EDIT: As for scheduling the motion-detector, it works if you set it correctly. From the web-configuration utility, click on "Alarm Service Setting." Set the sensitivity level, etc., then check if you want to have the camera email you and/or take screenshots of events triggering the alarm and upload to a designated FTP server. I checked both. For the scheduler, check "Scheduler" to bring up a week calendar with hour. Click on the hours you'd like the camera to trigger its motion-detector, then press "Set". Note that the alarm mode won't go into affect after about 30 seconds after rebooting. I didn't know this at first and thought this feature was defunct from factory. I'm guessing the camera is giving you time to evacuate the premise before arming itself. The scheduling calendar is very cumbersome, so it's probably easier to just turn on or turn off the motion detector.
Also since you need Internet Explorer to use the ActiveX enabled web interface, Mac users will luck out. The IE version of the web interface allows you to record video (AVI format), take a snapshot, listen and talk through your camera, along with the ability to command multiple cameras. It also appears that the remote on/off switch works with the ActiveX IE control interface, but doens't for the other interfaces. I haven't had time to fully test them.
UPDATE 2: I live in an apartment complex where I gave permission to the leasing staff to deliver packages into my apartment when I am not home to sign for it. I set up the camera for motion detection and it picked up the delivery, snap a few shots and emailed to me in addition to continuously snapping shots in 5 seconds interval and uploading it to the FTP server. Simply awesome for $5x.00.
I'm so impressed with this camera I'll be purchasing two more units, possibly in white so they can blend with the white walls.
UPDATE 3: For WiFi, make sure your router is 802.11 a/b/g compatible and set at 2.4ghz frequency. The IP camera will not pick up your router if it's set at 5 ghz at N-mode only. For MAXIMUM WiFi performance, do not obstruct the WiFi antenna. Swivel it downward if you have to as the antenna is not as sophisticated and is extremely sensitive to obstruction.
UPDATE 4: Thanks to Jean-Pierre Ciudad, you can download a program called "IP Scanner for Mac" from cnet.com. It will detect the IP address of the IP camera seamlessly. Once the IP address is noted, simply punch it in your web browser to make the subsequent changes. First thing first is to change the IP address for the camera to match your network. You can find this under "Basic Network Setting" of the web interface no need for a Windows machine.
UPDATE 5 How to configure your camera for wireless access: After playing around with the wireless set up, I think I've found a sure-fire way to set up your IP Cam for wireless connection. The first thing you need to do is connect it to the LAN via Ethernet and configure your camera for LAN access, basically if you've got your IP Cam up and running by following my instructions above or through your own mean, you're ready to go wireless. Now the trick here is to keep in mind that when you go wireless, your wireless router will assign the IP Cam a new IP address via DHCP, meaning most likely you will not be able to access the camera at the LAN-assigned IP address. I think this is the main reason if not THE reason why a lot of folks are having a hard time getting the IP Cam to connect wirelessly. Also keep in mind that the IP Cam is only compatible at 802.11 a/b/g at 2.4ghz only. Not a problem with dual-band Time Capsule but you may need to configure your router accordingly.
So back to the setup procedure, once you get your IP Cam up and running on the LAN, go to your IP Cam's web UI and click on "Wireless Lan Settings" on the left navigation menu to configure the IP Cam for wireless access.
* Make sure the "Using Wireless Lan" box is checked.
* Under "SSID", enter your full wireless network name. You may click "Scan" multiple times until your wireless network shows up on the list (you may need to scan up to 4 times before it appears) or you can just type in the name of the SSID of your network. If you have Access Control List enabled, be sure to add the IP Cam's MAC address to the ACL.
* For "Network Type", select "Infra"
* Under "Encryption", select your security type. It's usually WPA2 (AES), but again, you need to do the research on your own network.
* For "Share Key", type in your wireless network access password.
Click SET and let the IP Cam reboot (30 secs). Next disconnect the Ethernet cable from the IP Cam and power down the camera, wait 30 seconds. Reconnect the power supply but leave the Ethernet cable unplugged and wait another 30 seconds for the IP Cam to boot up. Now your IP Cam should be connected to your wireless network. Run IP Scanner 2.5 or above to discover the newly assigned WAN IP address on the network (you can find this in your router's DHCP list via your router's admin page as well); this should be the new wireless IP address for your IP Camera. If the WAN IP for the IP Cam is 192 . 168 . 0 . 4, then you'll need to punch in 192 . 168 . 0 . 4 : 80 (or 192 . 168 . 0 . 4 : 81) to regain access to the web UI again, your LAN assigned IP for the camera will usually no longer work. If you've changed the default access port for the IP Camera to something else other than 81, be sure to use the custom port instead when accessing the new wireless IP address. If you plan on a 100% wireless connection you'll need to reconfigure your port forwarding settings, reserved IP setting (if you did this for LAN), access port, etc. Proceed with your WiFi configuration as if you're configuring the IP Cam for the first time on LAN. If you're considering an outdoor IP camera solution, be sure to check out my Agasio M105I Outdoor Wireless Wifi Waterproof Bullet IP Camera with IR-Cut Filter, Two-way Audio, Night-Vision, Email & review.
Master Accessory Kit Package For The Canon Powershot G15
I actually went to B&H photo to see if they would price match this package price(sorry 47th street photo) and they just shut me down. They went on to say there was no way you can get all that for such a price. I showed them the printouts so they could clearly see you can. Then they went on and on about how they do not believe 47th is an authorized canon dealer...well, they actually are. After 20 minutes of B&H hustling me to buy the Canon G12 at their store (for 20 dollars more I might add) I just was turned off by their hustling BS and so i left. I decided to give 47th Street photo a call to see if I can go to their actual store so I can pick up this great bundle. When I spoke to a salesperson he explained they were now just an online store but he can have the package delivered to me by the next day, he was extremely helpful, polite, professional and informative. I decided to put the order through Amazon since I had a credit with them...lol.
The package was delivered in a timely manner. Of course the camera is great and has excellent reviews already so i won't get into that. What I will get into is the package. The extra lens filters and attachments are awesome and when used with the camera allow you to even better your photography options. The lens filter case came with Opteka brand neutral density, circular polarizer, macro, UV and fluorescent lens filters which attached very nicely to the G12 when using the adapter it also came with. It also came with a telephoto and wide angle (which separates to become another macro) lens attachments. Again, a really good amount of picture taking option attachments. Along with all of that I received a very sturdy and well-padded Samsonite camera carrying case, 54 inch Opteka professional tripod (pretty sturdy, light and very collapsible and portable), an extra battery along with a quick one hour battery charger which comes with a car lighter adapter), a lens cleaning kit and an extra pocket size mini tripod. A GREAT ALL AROUND PACAKGE!!!...I'm so happy with this purchase.
I will definitely shop from 47th Street photo moving forward...their prices are REALLY competitive and their customer service is top notch.
The package was delivered in a timely manner. Of course the camera is great and has excellent reviews already so i won't get into that. What I will get into is the package. The extra lens filters and attachments are awesome and when used with the camera allow you to even better your photography options. The lens filter case came with Opteka brand neutral density, circular polarizer, macro, UV and fluorescent lens filters which attached very nicely to the G12 when using the adapter it also came with. It also came with a telephoto and wide angle (which separates to become another macro) lens attachments. Again, a really good amount of picture taking option attachments. Along with all of that I received a very sturdy and well-padded Samsonite camera carrying case, 54 inch Opteka professional tripod (pretty sturdy, light and very collapsible and portable), an extra battery along with a quick one hour battery charger which comes with a car lighter adapter), a lens cleaning kit and an extra pocket size mini tripod. A GREAT ALL AROUND PACAKGE!!!...I'm so happy with this purchase.
I will definitely shop from 47th Street photo moving forward...their prices are REALLY competitive and their customer service is top notch.
Canon EOS 70D 20.2 MP Dual Pixel CMOS Digital SLR Camera w/EF-S
The Canon 70D is simply the best DSLR on the market today! I searched for 6 months before making a purchase. This kit had the most to offer for the money.
Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS USM Telephoto Lens for Canon SLR Cameras
I got this lens for shooting architecture from a distance--an unsual application. I've also found myself using it to shoot kids soccer games. It's super sharp and very fast focusing. I haven't done formal tests at all apertures, but images appear vivid and contrasty at a range of settings. Online reviews rank this lens very highly and my own experience supports those findings.
The Image Stabilization seems to work very well, although be sure to turn it off if you're using a tripod--I've found that it can reduce image quality if you forget to turn it off in that application.
For shots where you'll be standing around a lot with the lens to your eye, ready for a shot, it gets kind of heavy to carry. If you're shooting sports, you might want to consider a monopod. For other applications, its weight is low enough not to be too big of a problem.
It comes with a canvas-like case that includes a loop you can use to attach it to your belt. I've found this works pretty well out in the field, particularly when combined with a photo-vest. The case also can be carried with a neck strap, but this gets in the way of your camera strap and is also thin, so it kind of cuts into your shoulder.
As I write this, the Amazon site has a link for 58mm filters for this lens. It takes 77mm filters.
The Image Stabilization seems to work very well, although be sure to turn it off if you're using a tripod--I've found that it can reduce image quality if you forget to turn it off in that application.
For shots where you'll be standing around a lot with the lens to your eye, ready for a shot, it gets kind of heavy to carry. If you're shooting sports, you might want to consider a monopod. For other applications, its weight is low enough not to be too big of a problem.
It comes with a canvas-like case that includes a loop you can use to attach it to your belt. I've found this works pretty well out in the field, particularly when combined with a photo-vest. The case also can be carried with a neck strap, but this gets in the way of your camera strap and is also thin, so it kind of cuts into your shoulder.
As I write this, the Amazon site has a link for 58mm filters for this lens. It takes 77mm filters.
Akai Professional MPK49 49-Key USB MIDI Keyboard Controller
Out of the box, I admit that the pads feel pretty damn stiff. However, as I mentioned in a comment on another review of this product, you can work with this. You can turn up the sensitivity, lower the threshold, or change the pad curve. It's also important to note that the pads do loosen up with use. Break them in!
As for the keyboard, it is on the stiff side. How you feel about this will depend a lot on what you're used to. Striking a key takes about 2/3 the force needed for an acoustic piano, but it feels really different because the force is the same throughout the stroke. This of course is a result of using a spring to provide resistance rather than a hammer, which gets momentum as it moves. It still feels quite good on the fingers, though.
It comes with templates for many different software packages already installed. Number one is for Ableton LiveLite, which is included in the box. I had a little bit of trouble getting a template for FL Studio, but I did find one after not too much effort searching the net.
The quality of the knobs and sliders and wheels is several leaps and bounds beyond the M-Audio Axiom series, although I have to say that the Axiom Pro (which I haven't had a chance to actually touch) may be a totally different story. The basic Axiom stuff feels like it belongs in a toy store when put up next to the MPK line.
I do worry that I maybe should have gone with the 61, but I'll just upgrade if that ends up being the case.
For now, this is one hell of a keyboard, and it comes at an excellent price.
As for the keyboard, it is on the stiff side. How you feel about this will depend a lot on what you're used to. Striking a key takes about 2/3 the force needed for an acoustic piano, but it feels really different because the force is the same throughout the stroke. This of course is a result of using a spring to provide resistance rather than a hammer, which gets momentum as it moves. It still feels quite good on the fingers, though.
It comes with templates for many different software packages already installed. Number one is for Ableton LiveLite, which is included in the box. I had a little bit of trouble getting a template for FL Studio, but I did find one after not too much effort searching the net.
The quality of the knobs and sliders and wheels is several leaps and bounds beyond the M-Audio Axiom series, although I have to say that the Axiom Pro (which I haven't had a chance to actually touch) may be a totally different story. The basic Axiom stuff feels like it belongs in a toy store when put up next to the MPK line.
I do worry that I maybe should have gone with the 61, but I'll just upgrade if that ends up being the case.
For now, this is one hell of a keyboard, and it comes at an excellent price.
Mitsubishi PK20 PocketProjector
If you find this unit at a reasonable price, especially with the battery attachment, nab it. You'll be the envy of all who see it. I'd give this unit 4.5 stars.
Pros:
no need to replace lamp (ever)...this feature is worth the price of the projector alone
amazingly small
7'x5' (or smaller) image
simple menus
tripod mountable makes it very portable & easy to adjust size & position
excellent for DVD movies
project image on walls (don't need the hassle of having a screen)
very silent
auto shut-off if no signal detected
Cons:
can't adjust size of the picture to fit screen, except by moving unit
Lights overwhelm the picture
no standby mode...will not turn on automatically if signal detected
pain to fit to a screen
Wishlist
more powerful/multiple LED
more adjustments
Pros:
no need to replace lamp (ever)...this feature is worth the price of the projector alone
amazingly small
7'x5' (or smaller) image
simple menus
tripod mountable makes it very portable & easy to adjust size & position
excellent for DVD movies
project image on walls (don't need the hassle of having a screen)
very silent
auto shut-off if no signal detected
Cons:
can't adjust size of the picture to fit screen, except by moving unit
Lights overwhelm the picture
no standby mode...will not turn on automatically if signal detected
pain to fit to a screen
Wishlist
more powerful/multiple LED
more adjustments
NOKIA LUMIA 900 IN WHITE 16GB UNLOCKED GSM - (3G HSDPA
I just bought this phone a few weeks ago and it is gorgeous. The screen just blew me away and the OS is very fast and user friendly. This is the first time I try a Windows phone and I have to say that it's been a wonderful experience. From now on I'll just use Windows phone for my daily use. My next gadget will be Nokia Lumia 920. I just can't look foward for this phone to hit the market. Nokia designs the best and most beautiful phones and now they work with the best OS on the market. Well done, Nokia and Microsoft!
Now, let's talk about Apps. I've read many comments of people talking about the ''lack of app'' on the Marketplace. I can tell my own experience. I come from Android and also I had a Apple iPhone 4S and the only App missing on the Marketplace (talking about me and the apps I use the most) are Instagram and OVO (and I've heard Instagram is comming soon to Windows Phones before this year ends). I have Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, Foursquare, MSN, KiK, Viber, Badoo, SkyDrive, Tango, Skype,Youtube,Shazam, SoundHound, Netflix, IMDb, Evernote, ESPN, CNN, Univision,SkyMap, TuneIn Radio, WhatsApp, Wikipedia and Weather much more... Also the Nokia App (Nokia Maps, Drive, City Lens, Music, Trailers, Creative Studio, Counters, Soundtracker, Transit, Contacts Transfer, Camera Extras and much more). The Marketplace keeps growing. The integration of Facebook, twitter, MSN, LinkedIn and Foursquare in my Windows Phone is AMAZING! I can put comments and give ''likes'' directly from my phone due to the AMAZING integretion between those Apps and my phone. and I don't have to go to the Facebook or Twitter App to do that.
I'm totally in love with my Nokia Lumia 900 and its amazing OS! I 100% recommend it! If you wanna be different, switch and go for it! Nokia Lumia phones the amazing experience!
Now, let's talk about Apps. I've read many comments of people talking about the ''lack of app'' on the Marketplace. I can tell my own experience. I come from Android and also I had a Apple iPhone 4S and the only App missing on the Marketplace (talking about me and the apps I use the most) are Instagram and OVO (and I've heard Instagram is comming soon to Windows Phones before this year ends). I have Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, Foursquare, MSN, KiK, Viber, Badoo, SkyDrive, Tango, Skype,Youtube,Shazam, SoundHound, Netflix, IMDb, Evernote, ESPN, CNN, Univision,SkyMap, TuneIn Radio, WhatsApp, Wikipedia and Weather much more... Also the Nokia App (Nokia Maps, Drive, City Lens, Music, Trailers, Creative Studio, Counters, Soundtracker, Transit, Contacts Transfer, Camera Extras and much more). The Marketplace keeps growing. The integration of Facebook, twitter, MSN, LinkedIn and Foursquare in my Windows Phone is AMAZING! I can put comments and give ''likes'' directly from my phone due to the AMAZING integretion between those Apps and my phone. and I don't have to go to the Facebook or Twitter App to do that.
I'm totally in love with my Nokia Lumia 900 and its amazing OS! I 100% recommend it! If you wanna be different, switch and go for it! Nokia Lumia phones the amazing experience!
Nikon SB-700 AF Speedlight Flash for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
List Price: $329.95
Sale Price: $299.95
Today's Bonus: 9% Off
I'm a big fan of the Nikon CLS wireless flash system and I have several Nikon speedlights that I use for high quality portable lighting. Overall, the system works really well, and armed with a few flashes and some simple clamps, I can get creative off-camera lighting nearly anywhere (for on-camera flash, I tend to use the Quantum units). Yes, it's infrared line-of-sight and doesn't have the range of other radio systems, but for me, it's fine.
I have a pair of SB900 flashes and have been very impressed with them in terms of light quality, ease of use and so on my only complaint is the bulk and weight. I also have a few SB600 units, which are more compact but they don't offer the same even, high quality lighting I get with my SB900. For whatever reason, I always find the SB600 too hot in the center, and somehow "harsh". I end up using various diffuser attachments, and by then, I get all the bulk of the SB900, and only half the output.
I figured I'd try an SB700, hoping to get light quality of the SB900 in a smaller, more convenient package. So far, I haven't been disappointed.
Operationally, the SB700 is very similar to the SB900 mostly the same menus, switches and options. This is a blessing for me because the older SB600 was so different from the SB900 that I'd have to spend a lot of time figuring out how to get it to do what I wanted.
The power, light quality and recycle time are also quite good on the SB700. I get recycle time under 3 seconds with Lithium batteries, and light output seems to be within about 30% of the SB900. All the SB900 options are available, including zoom, "even" flash (less falloff in the corners) and so on. The device weighs in at about a pound with batteries and it's notably smaller than the big brother SB900 (but heavier than the SB600). Construction quality is about what you'd expect, and there are even optional weather "boots" that cover the hotshoe contact so water can't seep between the flash and your camera in damp locations.
Some have complained about the SB900 and it's thermal shutdown feature. The SB700 seems to work differently when it detects temperatures rising, it slows down the recycle time, giving the flash tube time to cool. I suppose this is better than the SB900 (which just stops working if the flash tube hits a certain temperature).
The one complaint others have pointed out is that there's no standard PC jack, making it difficult to operate the flash via a standard PC cord. There are various alternatives if you need this capability, including an add on device with a hot shoe to PC adapter, but it can be annoying if you have accessories requiring PC cord connections.
Otherwise, I think it's a fine flash that Nikon owners will appreciate. Definitely recommended, either as part of an ambitious system or as your only flash.
Yukon Sea Wolf 3X42 Night Vision Monocular
List Price: $299.99
Sale Price: $220.29
Today's Bonus: 27% Off
This scope is one of the best Gen 1 units on the market. At 36 lines/mm, it has just about the best resolution. Most other units only have 24 lines/mm. The illuminator is bright (almost too bright), uniform, and has a crisp edge. It could be a bit larger, however, so that it would fill the field of view.
Note that if you remove the eyepiece or lens, (to put on the riflescope eyepiece or change the magnification) you will break the seal and the unit will no longer be waterproof.
Don't bother with the IR flashlight. Its output is actually less than the built-in illuminator and it is far from uniform.
Garmin Approach S2 GPS Golf Watch with Worldwide Courses (White)
If you do a search on my prior reviews, you will see that I have owned and/or tried several different golf GPS devices, and continually am searching for the perfect device. For the most part, nothing has touched my old Callaway MX (the original), until the batteries (even the replacement ones) would not hold a charge. The new MX held promise but didn't work for me well enough and it was returned after a round, leaving me for the past two seasons or so with the Garmin G.
Over time, I came to wonder about the benefits of having distance on my wrist and giving up some of the other features. Make no mistake, there are pluses and minuses with the G2 Approach, and it just depends on what is most important to you, and what you're willing to live without. First, on to the details.
In the Box: In the box comes the G2 watch, and very short quick start guide in like 500 languages and the charger clip. Like everybody else, I threw the box aside and proceeded to figure it out on my own. Charged in a few hours, no problem. The clip charger is not ideal, because it's kind of bulky (though light), but it's not that big of a deal. The clip is attached to USB, so you can charge it off your laptop, or from your little Apple USB charger box. Charges pretty quickly.
The Fit: I wear a larger heart rate monitor type watch (Suunto), so the Garmin is really no bigger than what I wear every day. The watch band is comfortable, and I didn't have to synch it too tight. Overall, I don't even notice it when I play, same thing as every day, so the fit is a plus.
The Display: I looked at the G3, because who doesn't want more pixels right? Well I said no to the extra $100 because I read the movable touch screen didn't work very well, and I could not see how it would work well, with the limited space on the face. The pixels are fine. I had no problem seeing the distances in the sun or the shade and found the resolution just fine.
Ease of Use: This is where some of the tradeoffs come in. On my Garmin G6 handled, I of course could get easy distance to any particular piece of junk to carry or to any bunker as well as to any layup distance. On the G6 is is a simple matter of moving the cursor on the touch screen with my finger and it calculates distances to there and from there to the flag, and it was easy to pull the cursor to the red, white and blue lines to get layup distances to 100, 150 and 200. Also, the G6 gives me the ability to move the flag on the green to the particular hole location--all of which are nice.
Now, on the G2, you can get distance to doglegs, and layups to 100, 150, 200, which is a fine amount of data to have (more than I really need) and the closest thing to a "complaint" I have about doing so on the G2 approach is the way you have to work the buttons to do it. Having said that, it's a minor complaint because the FAR FAR biggest advantage of the G2 is having your distances with you all the time--and I mean ALL THE TIME. There is no wake up function to wake the watch up from a sleep, no digging out the device from your pocket or sitting on the buttons my mistake and having it turn itself off or advance you to other screens without your knowledge. The G2 simply switches holes (advances holes) automatically for you when you get near the tee box and it's flawless. There's no digging out the device and having to go back a few holes and if your course starts you on the back side instead of the front, it just knows it. A huge plus. You just look at your wrist no matter where you are, and your distances to the front, center and back of the greens are just there in easy to read format. In my view, the proliferation of GPS and laser devices have kind of over complicated things because rather than getting a distance to the front, center and back, we too often get precise distances to the very spot of the flag (whether from GPS like the G6 or a laser), and we pull a club to that distance without factoring in the bounce and roll. Anyway, the front, center and back view on the G2 is great, and I wouldn't even want a scrollable or movable flag any more.
On to the minor complaint: There are a lot of button presses here. More than there should be. You hold the button to start a round. No worries there. To move from "hole view" to "layup" view, you have to hit a button again, but there is no "back key" and there should have been. Similarly, to score your round--and it only scores a single player's scores so you lose the score to add up scores for your pals, you have to press AND hold the OK button, scroll a menu of a few items to reach "SCORECARD," then hit the OK button again, which brings you to the hole you are on, and then you have to hit OK again to confirm you are entering the score on the right hole, press the up or down arrows to enter your score, press OK again, and then press AND hold the OK button until the menu comes up so you can hit CANCEL. You get used to it, but I have to say that without the ability to enter the entire foursome's scores, having the ability to enter scores on the watch loses some of its utility. True you can plug it into your computer and download your scorecard, and maybe that's valuable for you. After a few rounds, I decided to ditch scoring on this device and purchased a scorecard holder and went back to paper and pencil. Similarly, getting the "layup" distance requires a few button clicks too. You have to hit and hold the OK button, and then it brings you to 150 and 200 layup distances; well, I like to layup inside of 100 so bringing up the layup to 100 also involves hitting the up or down arrow key, and I'm not really sure how to get it back to the hole view when I am done.
All the G2 needs is a dedicated scorecard button (bringing up the scorecard on a single button) and a back key that would take you to wherever you were before you hit the menus. If it did that, it would be nearly perfect.
Satellite Acquisition: The G2 is far faster to acquire and hold the satellites than my G6, the Callaway MX Pro, the Callaway MX. Fast and no issues. Found my course right away too.
Battery Life. Rated at 3 weeks for watch only and 8 hours for GPS. It claims to have a power save feature, but I couldn't see how to enable it and wouldn't want to, because having the distances without having to push a button to wake the device was partly why I wanted it. In GPS mode, however, I was less than 50 percent down after a 4.5 hour round, so getting 36 out of this might be tough. I don't play more than 18 too frequently, so this shouldn't be too much of an issue for me.
Pluses: Small, lightweight, easy to read, and always on and have distances right there with you without having to wake the device or advance holes. Price is reasonable for what you get.
Minuses: You trade some of the things you may like, such as distance to any bunker, distance to carries over trouble, and a movable flag to position flag on the greens. A few non-intuitive or repetitive button presses especially if you are entering scores. Battery life bears watching if you frequently play 36 a day.
Net Summary: I am happy with this purchase, because I was ready to give up a movable flag and distances to bunker and other hazards in exchange for always having the numbers available without having to dig a device out of my pocket or mistakenly hitting buttons when it was in my pocket. It is worth it to me, because I really liked having my distances without any effort (marking your drives is exceedingly easy too). Depends upon what you are looking for and what you are willing to give up. I no longer need to see a birds eye view of the holes (and could get that off the paper score card anyway), and am "going back to basics" just having a number to the front, center, and back. It is helping my game not to get too precise distances to hole locations anyway, and causing me to think about whether I want to land it short or long. It's worth a look.
Over time, I came to wonder about the benefits of having distance on my wrist and giving up some of the other features. Make no mistake, there are pluses and minuses with the G2 Approach, and it just depends on what is most important to you, and what you're willing to live without. First, on to the details.
In the Box: In the box comes the G2 watch, and very short quick start guide in like 500 languages and the charger clip. Like everybody else, I threw the box aside and proceeded to figure it out on my own. Charged in a few hours, no problem. The clip charger is not ideal, because it's kind of bulky (though light), but it's not that big of a deal. The clip is attached to USB, so you can charge it off your laptop, or from your little Apple USB charger box. Charges pretty quickly.
The Fit: I wear a larger heart rate monitor type watch (Suunto), so the Garmin is really no bigger than what I wear every day. The watch band is comfortable, and I didn't have to synch it too tight. Overall, I don't even notice it when I play, same thing as every day, so the fit is a plus.
The Display: I looked at the G3, because who doesn't want more pixels right? Well I said no to the extra $100 because I read the movable touch screen didn't work very well, and I could not see how it would work well, with the limited space on the face. The pixels are fine. I had no problem seeing the distances in the sun or the shade and found the resolution just fine.
Ease of Use: This is where some of the tradeoffs come in. On my Garmin G6 handled, I of course could get easy distance to any particular piece of junk to carry or to any bunker as well as to any layup distance. On the G6 is is a simple matter of moving the cursor on the touch screen with my finger and it calculates distances to there and from there to the flag, and it was easy to pull the cursor to the red, white and blue lines to get layup distances to 100, 150 and 200. Also, the G6 gives me the ability to move the flag on the green to the particular hole location--all of which are nice.
Now, on the G2, you can get distance to doglegs, and layups to 100, 150, 200, which is a fine amount of data to have (more than I really need) and the closest thing to a "complaint" I have about doing so on the G2 approach is the way you have to work the buttons to do it. Having said that, it's a minor complaint because the FAR FAR biggest advantage of the G2 is having your distances with you all the time--and I mean ALL THE TIME. There is no wake up function to wake the watch up from a sleep, no digging out the device from your pocket or sitting on the buttons my mistake and having it turn itself off or advance you to other screens without your knowledge. The G2 simply switches holes (advances holes) automatically for you when you get near the tee box and it's flawless. There's no digging out the device and having to go back a few holes and if your course starts you on the back side instead of the front, it just knows it. A huge plus. You just look at your wrist no matter where you are, and your distances to the front, center and back of the greens are just there in easy to read format. In my view, the proliferation of GPS and laser devices have kind of over complicated things because rather than getting a distance to the front, center and back, we too often get precise distances to the very spot of the flag (whether from GPS like the G6 or a laser), and we pull a club to that distance without factoring in the bounce and roll. Anyway, the front, center and back view on the G2 is great, and I wouldn't even want a scrollable or movable flag any more.
On to the minor complaint: There are a lot of button presses here. More than there should be. You hold the button to start a round. No worries there. To move from "hole view" to "layup" view, you have to hit a button again, but there is no "back key" and there should have been. Similarly, to score your round--and it only scores a single player's scores so you lose the score to add up scores for your pals, you have to press AND hold the OK button, scroll a menu of a few items to reach "SCORECARD," then hit the OK button again, which brings you to the hole you are on, and then you have to hit OK again to confirm you are entering the score on the right hole, press the up or down arrows to enter your score, press OK again, and then press AND hold the OK button until the menu comes up so you can hit CANCEL. You get used to it, but I have to say that without the ability to enter the entire foursome's scores, having the ability to enter scores on the watch loses some of its utility. True you can plug it into your computer and download your scorecard, and maybe that's valuable for you. After a few rounds, I decided to ditch scoring on this device and purchased a scorecard holder and went back to paper and pencil. Similarly, getting the "layup" distance requires a few button clicks too. You have to hit and hold the OK button, and then it brings you to 150 and 200 layup distances; well, I like to layup inside of 100 so bringing up the layup to 100 also involves hitting the up or down arrow key, and I'm not really sure how to get it back to the hole view when I am done.
All the G2 needs is a dedicated scorecard button (bringing up the scorecard on a single button) and a back key that would take you to wherever you were before you hit the menus. If it did that, it would be nearly perfect.
Satellite Acquisition: The G2 is far faster to acquire and hold the satellites than my G6, the Callaway MX Pro, the Callaway MX. Fast and no issues. Found my course right away too.
Battery Life. Rated at 3 weeks for watch only and 8 hours for GPS. It claims to have a power save feature, but I couldn't see how to enable it and wouldn't want to, because having the distances without having to push a button to wake the device was partly why I wanted it. In GPS mode, however, I was less than 50 percent down after a 4.5 hour round, so getting 36 out of this might be tough. I don't play more than 18 too frequently, so this shouldn't be too much of an issue for me.
Pluses: Small, lightweight, easy to read, and always on and have distances right there with you without having to wake the device or advance holes. Price is reasonable for what you get.
Minuses: You trade some of the things you may like, such as distance to any bunker, distance to carries over trouble, and a movable flag to position flag on the greens. A few non-intuitive or repetitive button presses especially if you are entering scores. Battery life bears watching if you frequently play 36 a day.
Net Summary: I am happy with this purchase, because I was ready to give up a movable flag and distances to bunker and other hazards in exchange for always having the numbers available without having to dig a device out of my pocket or mistakenly hitting buttons when it was in my pocket. It is worth it to me, because I really liked having my distances without any effort (marking your drives is exceedingly easy too). Depends upon what you are looking for and what you are willing to give up. I no longer need to see a birds eye view of the holes (and could get that off the paper score card anyway), and am "going back to basics" just having a number to the front, center, and back. It is helping my game not to get too precise distances to hole locations anyway, and causing me to think about whether I want to land it short or long. It's worth a look.
Konica Minolta VC-7D Vertical Battery Grip for the Maxxum 7D
This review is aimed at current or previous owners of the Maxxum 7 (the 35mm film version of the 7D) who have used the vertical grip with that camera and are thinking about buying the corresponding grip for the new Maxxum 7D. It may still be of use to users who are new to the Maxxum cameras and vertical grips but it will mostly make a comparison to the previous model since there are some differences to be aware of.
Functionality
The new VC-7D provides all the operational functionality of its predecessor the VC-7. All of the main controls can still be accessed easily when shooting vertically and the layout is basically the same as the VC-7. The VC-7D does however include the addition of an AF Area button.
Battery Options
The VC-7D differs from the VC-7 in several ways when it comes to battery options. First off, the VC-7D actually takes the place of the battery within the camera. The battery from the camera is moved into the VC-7D. Second, the battery compartment will hold either one or two NP-400 batteries or you can use six AA batteries. Third, because there is not a battery within the camera itself while using the VC-7D you cannot switch between the camera battery and vertical grip batteries as you could with the VC-7. It will always use the batteries contained within the vertical grip.
Size & Weight
As you will have already noticed the Maxxum 7D is slightly larger than the Maxxum 7. The VC-7D vertical grip continues this trend and is larger than the VC-7. Part of the reason for this is to match the increased size of the camera body. The increase is also due in part to the fact that the VC-7D has to hold all of the batteries now rather than just supplemental batteries as with the VC-7. The added weight is enough to be noticeable, especially if you are using two of the NP-400 batteries of six AA's.
Overall Impression
In summary, the VC-7D provides additional flexibility in both handling and power at the cost of increased size and weight. I personally do not find the increases to be a problem. The feel is a bit different than the VC-7 / Maxxum 7 combination but it hasn't taken me long to adjust to it. Aesthetically, the VC-7D doesn't match the Maxxum 7D as well as the VC-7 / Maxxum 7 combo because the finish is slightly different between them. Functionally they are a great pairing. Overall, if you have become accustomed to the flexibility of using the vertical grip with your Maxxum 7 then you will be right at home with the VC-7D on your Maxxum 7D. It was one of my first purchases after getting my new camera and I am very glad that I bought it.
Functionality
The new VC-7D provides all the operational functionality of its predecessor the VC-7. All of the main controls can still be accessed easily when shooting vertically and the layout is basically the same as the VC-7. The VC-7D does however include the addition of an AF Area button.
Battery Options
The VC-7D differs from the VC-7 in several ways when it comes to battery options. First off, the VC-7D actually takes the place of the battery within the camera. The battery from the camera is moved into the VC-7D. Second, the battery compartment will hold either one or two NP-400 batteries or you can use six AA batteries. Third, because there is not a battery within the camera itself while using the VC-7D you cannot switch between the camera battery and vertical grip batteries as you could with the VC-7. It will always use the batteries contained within the vertical grip.
Size & Weight
As you will have already noticed the Maxxum 7D is slightly larger than the Maxxum 7. The VC-7D vertical grip continues this trend and is larger than the VC-7. Part of the reason for this is to match the increased size of the camera body. The increase is also due in part to the fact that the VC-7D has to hold all of the batteries now rather than just supplemental batteries as with the VC-7. The added weight is enough to be noticeable, especially if you are using two of the NP-400 batteries of six AA's.
Overall Impression
In summary, the VC-7D provides additional flexibility in both handling and power at the cost of increased size and weight. I personally do not find the increases to be a problem. The feel is a bit different than the VC-7 / Maxxum 7 combination but it hasn't taken me long to adjust to it. Aesthetically, the VC-7D doesn't match the Maxxum 7D as well as the VC-7 / Maxxum 7 combo because the finish is slightly different between them. Functionally they are a great pairing. Overall, if you have become accustomed to the flexibility of using the vertical grip with your Maxxum 7 then you will be right at home with the VC-7D on your Maxxum 7D. It was one of my first purchases after getting my new camera and I am very glad that I bought it.
Samsung Series 9 NP900X3C-A01US 13.3-Inch Ultrabook (Ash Black)
List Price: $1,299.99
Sale Price: $1,299.00
Today's Bonus: $0.99 Off
I want and still do love this laptop from a design perspective. The quality control is troubling though.
Problems with the first laptop:
1) Screen had extreme back-light bleed through on the edges, especially the top right corner. Before asking for an exchange I went to a local store to see how the screen looked and it didn't exhibit the back-light bleed problem.
2) Laptop got very hot so I opened it up to see what was happening. The right fan vent was completely blocked by a plastic tab when the fan was installed so even though it was running, it wasn't bringing cold air into the machine.
3) While opening the laptop to inspect fan, I noticed that the battery was missing all of it's screws to hold it securely in place. It wasn't even assembled correctly.
Problem with second laptop:
1) Screen bleed problem was resolved, but not there it had a very obvious dead/stuck pixel on the screen. I expect the screen to not have bad pixels when paying for a $1300 laptop.
Problems with third laptop:
1) Screen is perfect, no back-light bleed or bad pixels.
2) Track pad is horrible, very loose and makes clicking noises when just swiping finger across it, not even pressing it for the left/right "click".
3) Right fan has a much more audible clicking noise than the previous 900x3c's I returned.
4) Question mark key on keyboard has paint missing/scratched so backlight shines through in a slit on the edge of it.
5) After a few days, computer would no longer boot, called Samsung and it turns out to be a hardware, not ssd problem so they recommended another replacement.
That was the last replacement Amazon would allow me to get, now I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I would really love this laptop if the quality control issues were resolved. I feel like I could assemble the good qualities of 3 laptops myself to get 1 good one that's up to par.
-----Update ------
I received my new 900x3c and it has none of the issues the previous three had. Maybe I was extremely unlucky with the previous ones or there was a bad batch? Now that I have one that is working to specs here's my review.
Design:
The laptop is extremely thin and looks very sharp. I've used it in a few public settings and get a lot of compliments and small talk about it from random people that want to hold and feel it. I believe the design is better than the macbook air and very solid with no creeks as I hold it or move the screen.
Screen:
The screen has great viewing angles from above and from the sides, has very rich color, and can be turned up very bright. I have no dead pixels and the screen backlight is very uniform and the resolution is great.
Keyboard and Trackpad:
The keys are slightly on the stiff side, with expected limited travel, but not a deal breaker and still great to type on. The backlight is a nice shade of blue/green and the brightness can be adjusted.
The trackpad is nice and large, supports multi-touch and is very nice no complaints.
Hard Drive:
The hard drive is on the small side, but upgradeable. I wish Samsung had included a 256 gig one instead of the 128 gig one. I have already upgraded the drive to the MyDigitalSSD 256GB SMART SATA III (6G) SandForce mSATA Solid State Drive which is extremely fast and I highly recommend it. It took about 10 minutes for me to removed the old SSD and install the new one.
RAM:
This is the only area that regret about the laptop. 4GB of RAM is ok, but not ideal, especially in a few years. I think I'll be able to get by and I haven't run short on memory yet, but really think Samsung should have included 8GB. The RAM is also not upgradeable in the 900x3c and is soldered to the motherboard.
Battery Life:
I seem to be getting between 5 and 6 hours of battery life on a full charge with light web usage. I would prefer a little more, but this seems acceptable. The battery is user upgradeable and is held in place by 4 screws visible once the bottom of the laptop is removed. This will come in handy in a couple years as the battery life starts to fade.
Wireless Signal Strength:
No issues with the wireless signal strength. It seems to perform well and has as much if not more signal strength than any other laptop I've used.
Heat/Noise:
The only time the bottom of the laptop got pretty warm was when playing Diablo III. The laptop has two fans and they are very quiet. Even at full speed, it's much quieter than a macbook air or pro. The fans don't come on at all during normal/light usage such as web surfing/emailing/word document editing and the laptop regulates temperature very well.
Speed/Performance:
The laptop is very quick for an ultra book. It can do a cold boot in about 10 seconds and wakes up from sleep in about 1 to 2 seconds. Graphic performance is very good too, for an ultrabook. No issues playing HD videos. I even loaded Diablo III and it runs very smooth with all high settings and a resolution of 1600 x 900. That's the only game I've tried so far.
Windows Experience Index:
Processor: 6.9
Memory (RAM): 5.9
Graphics: 6.4
Gaming graphics: 6.4
Primary Hard Disk: 7.4 for the original one... 7.9 when I upgraded to the MyDigitalSSD
Let me know if you have any questions and I'd be happy to answer.
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX200V 18.2 MP Exmor R CMOS Digital Camera
List Price: $479.00
Sale Price: $416.95
Today's Bonus: 13% Off
For some reason this was available in New Zealand, via Asia, before the US/UK release. I've had it for about a week now. So, it is as spec'ed in the preview comments about it so far from the various websites.
It starts fast, focuses quickly, does not have shutter lag and is easy to handle and has tons of functions. It handles well for its size and does not feel heavy. Having the zoom on the side of the lens is great makes it more stable to hold the camera. I've taken some pretty amazing shots with it the zoom allows good creativity and the low light capability produces detailed and pleasing shots. How much different this camera is to the previous model I'm not really sure in terms of the additional megapixels via the new sensor. My previous camera was a Olympus E620 DSLR in comparison there is less detail with the Sony, although not hugely noticeable on a 23" LCD computer monitor. The camera is a lot of fun to use and it just begs you to be more creative when shooting. The partial colour shots are great. The LCD screen is very good, nice and bright. Nice touch to use the optical viewfinder and have the screen turn off. The built in user manual is great to look up what a function does without having to refer to the manual. Also when you find what you want it provides the option to go to that function right away so for example I wanted to look at the ND filter function, once I've read what it does I can then select to open the function from the help screen rather than exiting help and then trying to find it through the menu system.
It provides good flash coverage and the slow-sync function is great to prevent those deer in the headlights shots as this flash can put out a lot of light.
The superior auto mode is good for the stability/less blur in long range shots as it takes multiple photos and apparently works out which is the best photo to save. This is great as at maximum zoom the camera shake from your hands can be a problem if you've ever experienced using a megazoom before. Personally without that image stabilisation and multi-shot taking having a megazoom is a bit pointless as you'd never take good photos at long range without frustration.
Shooting movies and the ability to shoot a good sized still at the same time is very impressive probably one of the best features as I've always wanted to be able to take a high MP shot during a video shoot because that's when you typically need it and on other cameras it was always one or the other but not both at the same time. The video quality is very good. No issues there and the zoom works well when videoing. The microphone does pick up background noise around the camera (ie from people talking nearby) and without a zoom mic option is somewhat limiting. That said the audio capture is good.
Other good things HDR similar function to my iPhone 4S produces good highlighting without overcooking the photo. When it is taking multiple photos with HDR and other functions it takes a few seconds time to process and save these but I guess thats normal. The menu system is good particularly given how many functions this camera has.
I use it with a Sandisk 32GB Extreme 32GB SDHC Flash Memory Card (Class 10). Seems fine to use saves quickly. It is probably better to get higher spec cards like this one if shooting HD video.
On the downside... the lens cap can get stuck if you don't remove it before turning the power on. Flash there's no button to pop it up as per usual cameras you need to use the jog dial and select flash to get it to pop-up. Once set it then pops up the flash when needed. The LCD screen doesn't fully articulate but that is not a major for me.
In summary it will never please the pro's out there the image quality is very good but not perfect. Good enough for most people wanting the "best for me" rather than "best in the world" class of camera its affordable, has huge capabilities, more than acceptable image quality and fun. A family orientated camera for sure that everyone can pick up and use and get pleasing results (and compliments).
There is a link to a few photos in the comments section (all handheld shots, no photo editing). Have added some more photos very pleased with the colour accuracy.
A bit more on zooming in photo or video mode and focusing speed which is typically an issue with superzooms. To me the Sony seems quick to focus at maximum zoom in photo or video mode. We're certainly not talking more than a half a second to a second say from one subject to another at the far end of the zoom. It's quick and smooth with no hunting zoom noises. Would be nice if someone else reviewed this camera to concur!
Polaris SPD500 Flash Meter
List Price: $409.95
Sale Price: $294.95
Today's Bonus: 28% Off
The features of this meter make it a better value than the competition at the same price range. Controls and display are intuitive, easily accessible and well thought out. The pivoting fat spotmetering feature adds versatility to the device. Readings from all the different modes are accurate compared to other exposure meters.
While others enjoy lugging around hefty and heavy equipment, this meter will contribute very little weight and occupy modest space in your already massive camera bag. If you're not the type who take pride in abusing equipment, this meter should serve you well.
Sony HDR-PJ790V High Definition Handycam Camcorder Bundle
List Price: $1,898.00
Sale Price: $1,598.00
Today's Bonus: 16% Off
I wanted primarily the Sony HDR-PJ790V of course. The extra battery and memory cards were very useful, especially the 64 GB class 10 which I use in the HandyCam. I put the 32 GB aside for the Sony Cybershot HV 200 that I purchased earlier. The carrying case was the small one so that was just the best for accessories. The card holder was nice. I haven't tried the lens adapter or filters yet but they seem to be of good quality. The cleaning solution and cleaning pads etc seem great. The tripod is a bit small for the camcorder but would be great for the camcorder light.
As for the HDR-PJ790V itself, I can not compare it with any other camcorder as this is my first. I bought it for the unique features and functions that are available with a camcorder over a camera. I also wanted the wi-Fi function (extra adapter) and IR and low light capability. I will compare it with my cameras at some point including those that are full frame and DX body's as well as those that have the smaller sensors. All and all, I like the portability, the touch screen capability. I did also try the projector and it worked well on my ceiling. I do have a white projector screen from the past and i will try that as well at some point. It does pick up a bit of noise when using the internal mic so if that is an issue one might want to use an external or wireless mic set up. I can not say much more at this time.
Samsung UN46D7000 46-Inch 1080p 240 Hz 3D LED HDTV (Silver)
Use the picture settings in my Review listed at the end and the Samsung un55d7000 will look awesome. First off I notice major black light bleed out of the box & even after tweaking the TV on my own until I found the right settings from a other users.
What I really like about this tv is that my playstation 3 is synced with the tv. My tv come's on when the playstation is turned on and I can control my ps3 with my Samsung remote nice feature. The tv is nice a thin not very heavy. The 2d to 3d conversion is total crap some stuff looks good but for the most part it's a BIG gimmick. Movies & stuff filmed in 3D look amazing sometimes it's a hit & miss. So far my favorite 3d movies are : ( Monsters Vs Aliens ) ( avatar ) ( Despicable me ) Resident evil looked like crap & I really didn't like monster house. I am hoping the studios will improve 3D filming and make live action films pop out more. I tried some playstation 3 games in 3d I like the idea but WoW it really makes your eyes hurt after awhile.
Setting up the tv was pretty easy I did found setting up the wireless on the Tv to be a real pain. I am pretty good with computers and wireless network it was still a pain. I have a netgear router and I was not able to link it with normal settings the tv kept saying my pass word was wrong password ended up doing the button method on my router and samsung tv. Right away the Tv found the router and no more issues.
Now for the calibration settings that will make your set look amazing and reduce the famous Samsung clouding issue and black light bleeding which I couldn't stand until this ! Make sure you have a hdmi 1.4 cable I did notice a issue with my old hdmi cable and the 1.4 cable solved the slow lag, any cheap one will do as long as it's 1.4
PICTURE
Picture Mode Movie
Backlight 8 (3D: 11)
Contrast 92
Brightness 48
Sharpness 15
Color 50
Tint 50/50
ADVANCED
Black Tone Off
Dynamic Contrast Off
Shadow Detail 0
Gamma 0
Color Space Custom
Flesh Tone 0
Edge Enhancement Off
Motion Lighting Off
What I really like about this tv is that my playstation 3 is synced with the tv. My tv come's on when the playstation is turned on and I can control my ps3 with my Samsung remote nice feature. The tv is nice a thin not very heavy. The 2d to 3d conversion is total crap some stuff looks good but for the most part it's a BIG gimmick. Movies & stuff filmed in 3D look amazing sometimes it's a hit & miss. So far my favorite 3d movies are : ( Monsters Vs Aliens ) ( avatar ) ( Despicable me ) Resident evil looked like crap & I really didn't like monster house. I am hoping the studios will improve 3D filming and make live action films pop out more. I tried some playstation 3 games in 3d I like the idea but WoW it really makes your eyes hurt after awhile.
Setting up the tv was pretty easy I did found setting up the wireless on the Tv to be a real pain. I am pretty good with computers and wireless network it was still a pain. I have a netgear router and I was not able to link it with normal settings the tv kept saying my pass word was wrong password ended up doing the button method on my router and samsung tv. Right away the Tv found the router and no more issues.
Now for the calibration settings that will make your set look amazing and reduce the famous Samsung clouding issue and black light bleeding which I couldn't stand until this ! Make sure you have a hdmi 1.4 cable I did notice a issue with my old hdmi cable and the 1.4 cable solved the slow lag, any cheap one will do as long as it's 1.4
PICTURE
Picture Mode Movie
Backlight 8 (3D: 11)
Contrast 92
Brightness 48
Sharpness 15
Color 50
Tint 50/50
ADVANCED
Black Tone Off
Dynamic Contrast Off
Shadow Detail 0
Gamma 0
Color Space Custom
Flesh Tone 0
Edge Enhancement Off
Motion Lighting Off