Ikelite Compact Housing for Canon PowerShot S95 Digital Camera

Ikelite Compact Housing for Canon PowerShot S95 Digital Camera
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
List Price: $350.00
Sale Price: $324.95
Today's Bonus: 7% Off
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I purchased this housing for our new Canon S95 to accompany us on our honeymoon this May. Selecting the Ikelite housing was the next best decision after deciding to go on a Western Caribbean cruise. In addition to the housing, we also purchased the Ikelite W-20 wide angle lens (a must have!) and an Ikelite tray and arm to make handling a lot easier. We didn't spring for a strobe so we planned on shooting natural light.

We chose the Ikelite housing over the Canon housing because Ikelite is known for solid products and the Ikelite housing appeared to be better constructed with more rugged knobs and parts. We were correct. The Ikelite design is solid. The buttons are easy to use, the camera settings are easy to control underwater, and the whole setup is intuitive. In addition, I feel safe putting the expensive S95 inside. The O-ring is easily visualized to ensure a tight seal with nothing obstructing the O-ring contact with the body.

The one downside is that while you can control the front ring function quite easily, you loose the ability to control the rear ring. I don't see this as a huge downfall unless you are planning to shoot full manual (I shot mostly shutter or aperture priority). Even so, you are still able to control the setting of your rear dial using the left and right buttons. I don't see the need to spend significantly more money on the FIX Housing which retains the use of the rear wheel.

Overall, the housing is awesome, the camera is awesome, and for a "intermediate" level setup, this combination is capable of taking professional shots. Being able to shoot RAW with a point-and-shoot is a definite win for underwater photography enthusiasts. Your friends will be amazed, just take the time to read the housing user manual and also experiment with the camera in the housing above water. Now you that you have master UW photography, you will also need to master the art of RAW photo editing :) You can't loose with this housing/camera combination!

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Canon PIXMA MG2120 Color Photo Printer with Scanner and Copier

Canon PIXMA MG2120 Color Photo Printer with Scanner and Copier
Customer Ratings: 3.5 stars
List Price: $69.99
Sale Price: $45.00
Today's Bonus: 36% Off
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I didn't buy this Canon MG2120 printer online but I bought it at Wal Mart for $38. Perhaps you can find this printer for the same price at your own local Wal Mart or Target. Anyhow, this is one of the cheapest printers you can get and it works really well. I only use it for everyday printing because I'm a student. I use it for printing out Power Point slides for my classes and it works fabulously. It's pretty silent when it prints too, compared to the noisy HP printer that recently broke down.

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Sony Alpha NEX E-Mount 55-210mm f/4.5-6.3 OSS Zoom Lens with 3

Sony Alpha NEX E-Mount 55-210mm f/4.5-6.3 OSS Zoom Lens with 3 UV/FLD/PL Filters + Case + Tripod + Accessory Kit for NEX-3, NEX-C3, NEX-5, NEX-5N & NEX-7 Digital Cameras
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
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This lens was purchased for me as a Christmas present. For a short time the lens went off the market, however, I snagged it right before that happened. The lens is made of good quality and works with the Sony Nex cameras. I have a Sony Nex 5, first edition camera and it works flawlessly. Whether you use manual or automatic focus, this lens works hand in hand with the Nex without problem. I have never had any technical problems while using this lens and I love to use it in sporting events. It gets upclose and personal with the players and provides awesome quality photos. If you have a Nex, this is a must have.

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SPECO 4 Camera Digital Video Recorder w/80GB Hard Drive

SPECO 4 Camera Digital Video Recorder w/80GB Hard Drive
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
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This was one of Speco's first DVRS with INTERNET PROTOCOL and has been updated since its introduction in 2004. It still is a remarkable unit for the price. As I Custom Install and sell Video Surveillance Security Systems and Equipment, I have installed many of Speco's DVR-X4/IP. They are easy to install and are client user friendly. SPECO's tehnical support is excellent (1-800-645-5516) and their website () is very easy to nevigate.

You can download their complete catalog and technical tips for this product. Speco technologie offers Quality, Reliabilty and Affordabilty. Regards, Eddie. WEBSITE: CONTACT: info@eddiescustomintall.com

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Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX50 16.2MP Digital Camera with 5x Optical

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX50 16.2MP Digital Camera with 5x Optical Zoom and 2.7-inch LCD in Black + Sony 16GB Class 10 Memory Card + 2 Sony Cases + Replacement Battery + Mini HDMI Cable + Accessory Kit
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
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Fits nice in pocket. Takes great pictures. Small controls but easy to get used to. Lots of easy to understand icons for setting up shots for those les techy types. Good battery life.

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Nikon D300 DX 12.3MP Digital SLR Camera (Body Only)

Nikon D300 DX 12.3MP Digital SLR Camera
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
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Since 2006 I have owned a D200 for serious shooting situations and I got a D40 in early '07 for everyday shots (an awesome camera I give it SIX stars! a whole separate review is needed!), and after hearing about the D300 release in late 2007 I debated over whether to get one. I was really happy with my D200, which I took on some overseas trips and it performed perfectly. After demo-ing a D300 in stores and reading some online reviews, I decided to take the plunge. It was a big investment but now I have no regrets if not for the entire package, then for one thing: COLOR! Or one more thing: what Nikon calls 'Active D-Lighting' (translation: a significant change in the processor's realistic rendition of contrast, highlights, shadows, etc. the entire package of "TONE"). Also can an LCD rear-screen get any better than this?? In Jim Cramer-parlance I have to say that this model is definitely "best of breed".

Pluses and minuses: (note: edited every once in a while since I've used it for almost 6 months now and thousands of captures last edit was done on 4/9/08)

PLUSES:

Incredibly vivid, pleasingly, really surprisingly saturated color reminiscent of Velvia (high-saturation Fuji film used in slides, etc.) is now made possible by selecting the "Vivid" option in the "Picture Control" menu and cranking up the "Saturation" option there are three levels beyond the default "0" which sets it just about at the highest possible saturation that could be set in the D200. Even boring photos of things around the home, outside, etc. seem interesting and... well, exciting and vivid... with it set at +2 or +3 (although the +3 setting is a bit extreme for people photos, and renders their skin color a bit more intense than appears naturally). At the +3 setting even blase photos of ordinary things approach purposely-understated "art" in a MoMA-like way. For people I am finding Vivid+1 or Vivid+2 a bit more natural indoors with natural light, as the Vivid+3 saturates just a bit more than I prefer. Just like Velvia, these settings also do not warm the cool colors one of the minuses of other cameras' 'vivid' settings this is what's best (your cool blues, greys, greens, etc. stay cool, while the reds, yellows, oranges, bright blues/greens/etc. watch out!) (Edited note: after about 3,000 shots I saw that indoors it might be best to do a manual white balance preset off a white wall or carpet or something and then shoot in vivid mode, since in the automatic WB mode the reds tend to get boosted quite a bit under typical indoor light and some of my subjects looked like they had a very dark suntan, or even a sunburn, in the middle of December! Careful with this... also tried standard i.e. not vivid color settings with +1 or +2 saturation, and these were very realistic, although the backgrounds can be dull if you're intent on vivid colors all-around. Maybe best to use those on portraits only. Try them all out and see what works best.)

On-board so-called "Active D-Lighting" renders shadows and highlights in an very realistic manner, with no raising up of delicate shadow tones to mid-levels (as my outstanding, near-perfect-in-its-class Nikon D40 tends to do) this really must be seen to be believed. Coupled with the color quality (and deep saturation noted above), the detail in the highlights is excellent. The D40/D200 have this feature in post-capture (i.e. you adjust the captured image yourself) but this seemed rather crude; here it is said that the Nikon actually computes the needed adjustment and does it specifically for the scene you've captured. No more blown or off-color highlights in those 'rare' occasions when overexposure seeps into a shot in a very contrasty frame.

The new LCD screen is 3" in size and has a whopping 920,000 pixels (versus 230,000 for the D200, D80, D40, etc.) of resolution which means image review to check focus, color, etc. is impossibly accurate and well beyond the already very high quality of Nikon's 2.5 inch screens and way, way beyond that of the Canons with the greenish-greyish-tinted LCDs even on expensive models like the much-venerated full-frame 5D. Doesn't even come with a LCD protector cover like the D200 did because it's made with tempered glass and is super resistant to scratching, damage, etc. No more looking through plastic however transparent when reviewing shots or setting colors, lighting, etc. (Kind of always bothered me, that.)

100% coverage viewfinder excellent, and not cluttered up, making composition cleaner; nothing engraved in the viewfinder to get in the way (although you can optionally set the horizon-level grid to be on all the time, which I do, since it leaves an open space in the middle anyway, and those off-balance shots are a pain to fix).

51-points of autofocus available at first I didn't really care much as I tend to do the old-school method of using one point for focus, then recomposing but I started using the 51-point AF mode (the full-rectange setting that uses all sensors) and found that I don't need to do this as the D300 always seems to pick the object I wanted to focus on making things much, much easier although for really unusual shots with a subject in focus and others way out of focus, I move to the manual mode; the AF system is excellent in speed and accurate tracking of the object of focus as well (i.e. a running child, etc.) The 51 points make this very easy to do. Fiddling around in the store I saw on the big $5k D3 the points are better looking (little red spots) and less intrusive when composing than these large-ish black rectangles on the D300, but I can live with that (although it reminds me "hey, you don't have a D3!...").

There were issues about firmware and exposure on the D40, D80, where they tended to expose too brightly, and we had to set it manually to -0.3 or -0.7 to get back to normal exposure. Not on the D300. Perfect all-around. Still, adjusting WB and exposure can make or break the shot. Especially nice is the cloudy or 'shadow' setting for indoor shots in bright sunlight; everything looks pleasingly warm, even if just a tinge more than natural. Give it a try if you like warm colors. Interesting shots can be had using 'tungsten' outside in the snow a blue-grey monochromatic world. (If you have snow, that is.) Manual WB setting is easy off of a wall, or carpet, or napkin, etc. as usual with the Nikons in this range, and makes quite a bit of difference in odd-lighting situations (i.e. very dim room, etc.) where the automatic presets, although excellent, don't work well (especially that 'tungsten' in normal home incandescent lighting in the evening everything is medium-blued-out who uses this? Or am I using it incorrectly? I set WB in that situation off the wall or rug.)

other than the full-frame sensor (no small difference, that is) and high FPS, there appears, from what I am reading, to be no major differences (unless you're a sports or news shooter) from the highly-lauded D3, which costs 3x what the D300 costs; the D3's awesome high ISO performance can be mimicked by turning off the high ISO noise reduction set "on" in the default mode in the D300 (see below) Of course, the D3 has many other features that make it best for pro sports shooters, etc. who need that size and power, and of course, full-frame has no comparison but I have a bag full of DX lenses (and some non-DX primes) and not ready to put out $10k+ for a D3 plus a 14-24, the new 24-70 and the 70-200, etc. that I'd want. The differences in picture quality due to the full-frame sensor (and other features I wouldn't need as I don't shoot sports or news) are outweighed by the cost involved and the marginal nature of the difference overall. Image quality is essentially the same except for the pluses of the full-frame, especially noticeable in really big prints. Also the usual full-frame focal length versus DX issue remains alive here yes, that "35mm on a DX is equivalent to a..." continues, and probably will as long as DX lenses remain in our bags. Edit: I have tried the D3 for a shooting session and it does focus incredibly fast, much faster than the D300 in some cases. The speed of the focusing and the shutter itself are unbelievable; that camera is the Ferrari or Lamborghini of Nikons. The D300 may be the Porsche hey, not a bad compromise it's unlikely that the average pro-sumer will need the power of the D3 (or of a Ferrari ever try to do 140mph on the NJ Turnpike?).

These were my big main pluses which justified the transition from the D200, but there are a few more which don't really appeal to me but will for some:

Live View (you can see the image on the LCD screen) perhaps this might appeal to a tripod-user setting up a photo, but I doubt I'll ever use it. Smacks of "point-and-shoot", I think, but could be handy in some cases where it is hard to position the eye at the viewfinder (behind the sofa?...) (Edited note: should not have panned this gave the camera to my 21 year old niece, who tried to take a Christmas portrait of my family and I together and got half of us in the bottom of the frame, and an empty top half of the frame! for those who basically grew up using live view digital cameras, this feature is very useful just set it and let them shoot I think the weight of the D300 and the fact that she had to use a (gasp!) viewfinder (as opposed to the RAZR internal cellphone camera) threw her off. Some creative cropping may save the shot, anyway.)

Ultrasonic Sensor Cleaner like the Canons and Pentaxes, Sonys, etc., Nikon finally offers a sensor cleaner (which is user-operated, not constantly running at each power-up if you set it that way). Might be useful after hard shooting in dusty or otherwise camera-unfriendly environments, but I never had the need for it on any camera I ever had up to now. Just one more thing to possibly go wrong someday?

HDMI output (if you're lucky enough to have one of those big-screen HDTVs and want to show your photos to all on the screen; I don't and won't)

12MP versus 10MP (for the D200) great marketing material but MP beyond 6-8MP or so has only marginal effect on the quality of the image and doesn't really matter ultimately since all it does it highlight the limitations of the lenses or the technique of the shooter; I suppose it is nice to have that much more information recorded ultimately if you choose (via the size/compression settings) but I shoot with "large normal" JPG and don't want 10MB+ file sizes when I'm making 5x7 or 8X10 prints at most (or way, way more MB for RAW files) I am reminded by a post/commentor that the higher MP will be beneficial when cropping a photo considerably for printing good point if you're taking 25% of that shot and cropping it, printing it out to 8x10, those 12MP will keep your image nice and sharp even at such extreme crops (provided, of course, you're using the big filesize settings and have lots of storage space in the form of CF cards, hard disk space, etc.) I don't do a lot of cropping and prefer to create in-camera since I have practically no time to fiddle with Photoshop and the rest.

the new grip (sold separately, of course) that goes with it doesn't stick far up into the camera, so you can use the camera's battery as well as those in the grip as well, and decide which to drain first, etc. With the grip you get more FPS for action photography but I don't do much of that, and for me the grip makes the whole package too big to fit in my current Lowepro bag (trivial but hey, it's one more thing).

if you've had any Nikon DSLR before, especially a D200, you will feel immediately at home, with no ramp-up period; you don't even need to open the sealed manual, since the new features are so easily located and adjusted that all you do is adjust your settings and start shooting; what won't feel immediately familiar is the super-bold color you'll notice on the intricately detailed 3" LCD. Of course, ergonomics are nearly perfect; this camera is like a brick wrapped watertight in rough-textured rubber, perfect to grip and hold for long periods of time.

Capture NX software is included get this free! in a selected number of initial sales of the D300. It's panned by some but, if you don't have another software package, it's not a bad thing to get a reasonably pro-quality image software package for free. The easy-to-use three-point pinpoint adjustment tool is excellent. Edit update there is a Mac Leopard (OS 10.5) version now available yeah! so all computing formats are supported.

MINUSES

Quite a bit more expensive than the D200 naturally, since it's a new model, but is it worth it? for me it was for the top two reasons; for others, the D200 (or the D80, or the D40) will be way more camera than is enough also still appears to be hard to get at the right price initially; some supply issues reminiscent of the D200 were being seen but appear to have levelled off; now it's hard, I hear, to get the D3.

When I initially got it I thought that for some reason the highest ISO settings (i.e. 6,400) seemed to lead to somewhat hazier shots, likely due to high ISO noise reduction that is set ON to 'Normal' in the factory default but who shoots up to ISO 6,400 anyway, unless you're shooting hand-held at faster shutter speeds in very dark environments? I had my D200 set for maximum 1,600 in Auto ISO and that was always more than enough. You can always turn the high ISO noise reduction completely off (or set it to low for just a touch of clean-up) and get back to the D200's, and close to the D3's, level of quality. I did this and had no more issues that initially concerned me, but a side-by-side comparison of a very magnified crop might yield otherwise. The ISO settings are also odd in that there is no stated ISO 100 but the camera does have ISO options which Nikon calls various degrees of "LO", confusingly; just need to learn the terminology and adapt. High ISO noise is also really only visible, however, if you make 3-foot-wide prints, mural-size images or crop and magnify on your computer screen to unrealistic levels and look really, really closely. You won't even notice on a 5X7 or 8X10, or bigger, print in normal circumstances. The fact that there is Auto ISO at all (versus not having it in the Canons) makes shooting a breeze; no fiddling around with ISO settings when you're trying to capture an image. (Edited note: lots of high ISO shots without NR on have been excellent throughout the holidays, including plenty of dark, candlelit tables, Christmas trees with onboard lights only on, outdoor shots of decor, etc. Not sure how noisy these would look blown up to big poster or mural-sized prints but for 8X10 or less, I am sure these are perfectly fine.)

Wish the flip-up flash would have a rotating bulb enclosure which you could point upward and get a bounce-flash for indoor people photographs; fairly sure no other DLSRs have this but it would eliminate me having to (buy first and) carry around a Speedlight for indoor shots (i.e. Christmas present-opening by the tree in low light, etc.) lest I get the white-ghost effect of direct flash from the onboard unit. I rarely use the onboard flash except for fill-flash outdoors, so it is somewhat less useful than I would like. Then again, Nikon needs to sell Speedlights, so... the SB-600 is a perfect match. The SB-400 is also a nice one if you're not doing shots with far-off subjects, and it fits nicely on the D40 as well.

I don't know if it's my imagination but it feels like the two spinning dials (on the front and back, for setting aperture, shutter speed, etc.) are a bit more recessed into the camera body than those on the D200; when I spin them I get memories of cheap 1970s electronics when I would push a button, and it would wind up moving itself inside the radio (or whatever) and getting stuck in there I sampled other demos on the store floor and they felt the same as mine maybe this is to prevent accidental movement when shooting? It's as if they are not at exact 90 degree angles to the camera body. Nice feel on the fingers, but I get memories of those "stuck buttons" when I use them sometimes.

it probably would be nice to be able to stuff a CF card and an SD card in the camera for memory options; I prefer CF cards for their durability, but dislike having to invest in two types of cards CF and SD for the D300 and the D40, respectively. Don't know who could possibly shoot so much to fill a full 8GB card (maybe if you shoot RAW+JPG, etc. for sports) but a two-card capacity would also be nice just to know it's there.

It's still not full-frame I know, it's not supposed to be, and most DSLRs aren't, but I might have paid another $500 (maybe $750?) if they'd made it full-frame. However, that means another $5Gs+ on 2 or 3 aforementioned full-frame wide-zooms (and effectively making obsolete my big 12-24mm wide, awesomely versatile 18-200mm, and sharp 70-300mm DX VRs) so probably better for the wallet that it's not.

No PC button: The new D3 pro version only available to select press members (the D3P, they're calling it) has a "PC" button for "Picture Control" that is, you can quickly switch between your own custom settings you set up in the menu for different picture parameters say, for landscapes, a high-saturation setting (i.e. "Vivid" with saturation cranked up), and for people, a medium-color setting ("Normal" with moderate saturation), etc. but on the D300 (and the normal D3, for that matter) you have to fiddle around with the menu. A button to be able to switch between picture settings would be a godsend for this camera; otherwise you might miss a shot switching from, say, a high-saturation, white-balance adjusted setting for a beach landscape, then trying to quickly capture your kids on that same beach which would give them instant sunburns (on the image!) due to the oversaturation and WB adjustment unless you go pressing buttons to get into the menus (with the sandy fingers) and fiddle around, making the change. I believe Canons have a button dedicated to this, which makes me wonder why Nikon isn't thinking ahead and, in typical Japanese fashion, copying the best ideas and features from its competitors.

Other than these few minor (for me) minuses, this camera's new color capabilities, wildly improved highlight-renditioning and other features more than justified my investment in it. I'm getting great captures from it. Naturally a lot of that is subjective best to try it out yourself and judge before taking the plunge. One look at the images, the LCD, and the other features, and this one might be the one that makes all the Canon owners squirm in their chairs and wonder what to do with all those expensive "white lenses" now that they will want this Nikon! (Not that I myself wouldn't mind having a 5D and a few of those white-bodied Canon L-series teles, of course!...)

Disclaimer: for quick shots around the house of my kids, etc., I still grab my D40 soon to have a new 18-55mm VR lens shortly shipping from Nikon! and capture away it's got to be the best camera in its class, and the images rival the D300 under normal conditions. It's when things get a little complex (low light, action, the saturated colors, high ISO situations, etc.) that the D300 excels. Especially the saturated colors! Never seen anything like this in a DSLR and I've had 'em all (Nikons) or tried 'em all (Canon, Pentax, Sony, Olympus...).

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Leica D-LUX 6 Digital Camera Black

Leica D-LUX 6 Digital Camera Black
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
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This was a nice camera, but I don't think it was worth the price tag. I felt any ISO above 1600 was extremely grainy. I'm not really sure why the ISO goes above 6400 because the quality is pretty bad at 3200.

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Epson Artisan 1430 Wireless Wide-Format Color Inkjet Printer

Epson Artisan 1430 Wireless Wide-Format Color Inkjet Printer
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
List Price: $299.99
Sale Price: $299.00
Today's Bonus: $0.99 Off
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Update #2 Almost nine months after my original review and Epson STILL hasn't released the ICC profile for their Ultra Premium Luster paper. If you are using anything other than their Ultra Premium line you really aren't getting your money's worth on this printer. And as a photographer I can't give my clients work printed on glossy! Unfortunately, Epson doesn't seem to even have a timeline for giving their consumers proper ICC profiles. I just cannot understand why they have profiles for every other paper besides their most popular?

Update I am adding a few stars onto my original review for a couple of reasons. One, because Epson customer service is actually one of the better customer service experiences I've had to deal with. They are very quick and courteous with their responses. And two, because after a month the banding problem I was having has randomly fixed itself. I'm hoping it was only a problem with the printer being so new, and will not happen again. But I will certainly update my review if this is not the case.

Original Review

Let me start off by saying that if you can get this printer working correctly, it will produce some incredible prints. Epson's Ultra Premium photo paper, combined with the amazing Claria Hi-Def ink is sure to exceed your expectations on print quality. That is IF your printer decides to work properly.

Out of the box the initial installation (Mac OSX 10.6) was quite easy, and everything worked smoothly. I then tried to connect my printer to wi-fi which is when my problems began. Although I followed the instructions to a T, wi-fi just would not install on my printer, despite the fact that this printer advertises a wi-fi connection in "seconds". A few days, countless hours, and a couple phone calls to Epson did not solve the problem, I was basically told they didn't know what the issue was. Having to connect my computer and printer with a cable every time I needed to print something was a bit of a pain, but certainly not something that was worth the hassle of returning the product. I then started printing some images to complete client orders I had lined up, and I noticed banding on every single image. I followed all of the steps listed on Epson's website, as well as took the advice of a printing instructor at my school, taking every step to rectify this problem. Nothing worked. And weeks later my printer is still banding. I have changed the ink and lost a full pack of Epson Ultra Premium Photo Paper, wasting a ridiculous amount of money in the process. Now my printer will no longer even respond to the "clean the print heads" command.

Another big problem with this printer is that Epson has not completed the ICC profiles for some of their own paper, most notably the Ultra Premium Luster. This paper of course being the favorite of photographers. And if you can't print on Ultra Premium paper there's not much purpose in purchasing the overpriced Claria inks, as their full potential will not be reached using mediocre paper. I contacted Epson and they said they don't know when the ICC profile will be available.

Epson's paper is, in my opinion, the best on the market and as a photographer I hate giving my clients work printed on anything less. But nothing is worth this much hassle. Epson should invest some more time into producing quality printers that are worthy of the paper and ink they use.

*Just a note, this printer does not come with a USB cord, so if you are thinking of purchasing this product and don't have an extra one laying around, I suggest buying a USB cord along with it since your wi-fi may end up not working. Otherwise, you'll still need access to one for initial set-up.

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WD My Passport 1.5TB Portable External Hard Drive Storage USB

WD My Passport 1.5TB Portable External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0 Black
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
List Price: $199.99
Sale Price: $101.69
Today's Bonus: 49% Off
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Over the recent years I have purchased quite a number of these drives. I have a couple of USB 2.0 drives and about 12 of the USB 3.0 drives. They all performed flawlessly with my old computer. I purchased that computer in 2006 before these USB 3.0 drives existed and so the computer had only USB 2.0 ports. All the USB 3.0 drives worked perfectly in the computer with the USB 2.0 ports.

Then in December 2012 I purchased a new computer and it has USB 3.0 ports. I connected a drive and was anticipating the "blazing speed" for file transfers. But there was a problem...

The drive would lose connection and I would get an error message saying that the transfer did not complete and data was lost etc., etc.

I contacted the computer manufacturer and they claimed it was a Western Digital problem. I thought they were just passing the buck, but I did some research and found that there are very many complaints all over the Internet about the Passport USB 3.0 drives losing connections. The descriptions were fairly consistent: it happened most frequently when transferring large amounts of data (such as 2 Gb, for example).

There were two theories:

(1) The Passport drive uses only a single USB connection and therefore it draws all power through that USB port. The USB port, being compliant with the USB 3.0 protocol, does not provide enough power for the drive to spin the hard disk fast enough for the data transfer at USB 3.0 speeds. That results in the errors and lost connection.

(2) The USB cables from Western Digital are defective.

So I thought I'd test theory (2) first. I got on Amazon and found a seller for a compatible USB 3.0 cable, ordered it, received it, plugged it in and the drive works just fine. I selected a folder that had a large amount of data (8.4 Gb) and copied it to my C drive no problem. I copied it back and forth several times and it always worked (with "blazing speed", I might add 100 Mb per sec WHEW!!). I tried different drives they all worked just like I expected. That seemed to confirm to me that the cables were defective in some way.

I called Western Digital support. The Technical Support person sounded happy to help me. I described the problem to him. The first reply was that the support person put me on hold to discuss it with his supervisor. He came back and thanked me for bringing it to their attention and asked if there was anything else he could do. I said, "Yes you can replace the cables." I have 7 drives that are still within the warranty period, so I would expect a replacement for at least those drive cables.

After discussing with his supervisor again, he said only one cable could be replaced. I said that was not acceptable. He said it was a problem with the system that would not allow him to process more than one. I said that was not my problem and I expected to get the cables replaced for at least the drives that are in warranty or I would become a Seagate customer. He spoke with his supervisor again and said he could do it. I guess his supervisor must have somehow fixed the problem with the system.

Anyway, he said I would be receiving replacement cables. I asked if they would be the same identical cables which would also not work. He discussed with his supervisor again and said I would be receiving y-cables. At that I explained to him that this indicates to me that Western Digital has identified the cause of the problem to be a power issue that not enough power is being pulled from using just one USB port. He said, yes that was correct.

I asked what I should do when I need a new drive and the market is filled with product that was shipped with the inadequate cables. Am I supposed to just wait until that inventory sells off or should I instead buy Seagate drives... He said I can buy a Western Digital drive and call them right away. They will send a replacement y-cable. He didn't sound very happy at this point.

Note that when I first called Western Digital, the response was to appear like they had never heard of this before and to just blow me off.

After I pressed, the next response was to try to mollify me with just a single replacement cable.

Finally, they essentially admitted that they knew all about this all along and also had a solution that they never offered to me until I pressed hard.

So I still think Western Digital hard drives are among the best. But they have an identified, known, and confirmed defect in the USB 3.0 drive design (really just inadequate cables). Their response is to keep silent about it and hope people don't notice or just put up with it.

Therefore, I would have provided a 5-star rating for the drive, but because of the poor approach to Customer Service I knocked them down a couple of notches.

Shame on you Western Digital!! I place a lot of stock in the Customer Support a company gives, and in the honesty of the company to their customers. My confidence in you as a company is seriously undermined by this. Seagate may not be my provider for my drives at this point, and although I never seriously considered them before, I *AM* considering them seriously now.

Note this, Western Digital: I WAS a very satisfied customer. I continued to purchase drives even though I never posted an evaluation of the drives. Now I have become a somewhat dissatisfied customer and I have taken the time and made the effort to post this evaluation. Think about that...

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Y-cam Bullet, Network Camera, Outdoor, WiFi, PoE, MicroSD

Y-cam Bullet, Network Camera, Outdoor, WiFi, PoE, MicroSD, Nightvision, IRCut, Digital I/O, 2-way Audio - White
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
List Price: $349.99
Sale Price: $325.60
Today's Bonus: 7% Off
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Based on the online photos I saw, I assumed that the cylinder that you see was the whole package. The descriptions all said that the camera was waterproof, so I thought that I would be able to mount the camera as is, right out of the box. What I didn't know is that there is a cable that exits the camera that goes to a small box, and that box plugs into the electrical mains. That small box is NOT waterproof. So to mount it outside, you will either need to drill your wall and mount the box inside, or buy an outdoor electrical box that can contain the power interface box to keep it dry.

Setup and performance of the camera are terrific! Color video during the day, and black and white video under self contained infrared lights in the dark. Video (and stills) can be stored on a micro SD card onboard the camera, on your PC, or on network area storage (NAS). Setup software is included on a CD and worked flawlessly.

Great value overall. I can see adding more of these cameras in the future.

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Transcend 32 GB Wi-Fi SDHC Class 10 Memory Card (TS32GWSDHC10)

Transcend 32 GB Wi-Fi SDHC Class 10 Memory Card
Customer Ratings: 3 stars
List Price: $139.99
Sale Price: $69.99
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Review and comparison of the new Transcend 16g Wi-Fi Class 10 card vs the Eye-Fi Pro X2 Class 6 Wi-Fi card. This is going to be a top level review and not an exhaustive review of each card's features. Hopefully it will give you some information you haven't read elsewhere so to aid in your purchase decision.

I've had the Eye-Fi for a while so I am a bit more familiar with it but even saying that, the Eye-Fi is a much more mature piece of hardware and software.

What I like the best about the Eye-FI is that it can operate autonomously, uploading photo's to Facebook through your phone without any intervention by the user. The Trancend card, although newer and faster, requires the user to select, download and then share (upload) the pictures to your account. For me, the ability to upload to Facebook is what I'm looking for and I prefer the unattended operation of the Eye-Fi. You may feel differently.

First, let's look at the card's memory speed. Neither card is fast but the Class 10 Transcend is quite a bit faster than the Class 6 Eye-Fi

Using CrystalDiskMark as the benchmark, I recorded the following results.

Transcend 16g Class 10

File size 500mb

Seq Read 20.55mb Seq Write 17.56mb

512K Read20.06mb 512k Write 0.598mb

4K Read 2.397mb 4k Write 0.006mb

4k QD32 Read 2.421mb 4k QD32 Wrt 0.006

Eye-Fi 8g Class 6

File size 500mb

Seq Read 17.22mb Seq Write 13.49mb

512K Read16.40mb 512k Write 1.904mb

4K Read 2.592mb 4k Write 0.017mb

4k QD32 Read 2.749mb 4k QD32 Wrt 0.017

And for comparison.

SanDisk Extreme Pro 16 GB SDHC Class 10 UHS-1

Seq Read 90.21mb Seq Write 81.06mb

512K Read73.33mb 512k Write 8.106mb

4K Read 3.237mb 4k Write 1.484mb

4k QD32 Read 3.062mb 4k QD32 Wrt 1.136

As you can see from the above data the Transcend wins the speed race although neither card is speedy as compared to the Sandisk.

Next is setup. I'm not going to spend a lot of time here and there is a lot of detail which is outlined in each card's user guide. The Eye-Fi is set up by plugging the card into the included card reader and into your computer's USB port. You then log into the card via your browser and Eye'Fi's web page and set up the card for your desired operation. As I said earlier, the Eye-Fi has been around longer and is much more mature so you have a lot more control over what the card does when you ask it to transfer a photo.

After some trial and error with the Transcend, mostly centered around keeping it powered up while I was configuring it, I decided to try setting up the Transcend the same way, while plugged into my computer's card reader. That was the ticket, it allowed me to get everything working without worrying about the card shutting down while in the camera.

Advantage goes to Eye-Fi here, not only for the more mature utilities but also because the Eye-Fi card is recognized by my Nikon D600's firmware and the camera knows too keep power to it when the card needs to connect and transmit. The Transcend requires a lot of power and I discovered that I either had to keep the Nikon D600 in the "Live View" mode to keep the card powered or change the Custom Setting C2, Standby Timer, to some long period of time, like 5 minutes, to give me enough time to configure and transmit.

Operation:

I like to run both cards in the "Internet" mode as opposed to peer to peer. This way I set my phone to be a WiFi hotspot, connected to the internet via my mobile broadband connection. I install the Wifi card in my second SD slot and set that slot for use as overflow so that normally my photos are saved to the first card slot in which I have my fast Sandisk. I then go about my shooting. With the Eye-Fi card my work flow is to look at the pictures I took and "protect" those that I want the Eye-Fi to upload. Then when I'm ready to upload I simply use my camera to copy the protected photos to the second card slot...the Eye-Fi card, at which time the Eye'Fi knows to upload those photo's to my Facebook page and mark them as private so only I can see them. It does all this without intervention on my part. My camera has some really great built in photo editing utilities so I really do not need to post process on my phone or tablet so having the Eye-Fi work autonomously is great for my workflow.

I would do almost the same thing with the Transcend, would copy the photos to the second card, the Transcend. Then I would have to use my phone to select and download those pics to my phone. Once that was complete I could use either the Android Wi-Fi SD app or Facebook, or Flickr, or whatever, to transfer the photo's to my account.

There are many more features to the Eye-Fi card including Geocaching and endless memory so I suggest you go to their website and investigate all it has to offer before you make up your mind as to which card to purchase.

The Transcend card does have some potential and because I only paid $39 for it I plan on keeping it. It will be interesting to see how often Transcend updates the firmware and how many more features they can get into this card and mobile apps. I didn't mention the Transcend's "Shoot and View" option because my D600 has a great display but if your on camera display makes it difficult to see what you just did, the Shoot and View option may be important to you.

For me, the winner is the Eye-Fi hands down and I eagerly await the next generation of this card.

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Bushnell PowerView Super High-Powered Surveillance Binoculars

Bushnell PowerView 20x50 Super High-Powered Surveillance Binoculars
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
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I am an avid birder as well as a star-lover. These binoculars are incredible! I have them on my table at all times to watch birds with, and they go with me on any hike or camping trip I take.

The initial setup is super-easy, and once you do that, they are some of the best I've used for tracking down and focusing on a moving object. A quick finger-toggle slides the focus for you without losing track of what you're looking at. I've in fact bought many sets of these binoculars for friends and family as gifts because they were so useful for me, and now I have a wide following addicted to these binoculars.

The image of course is fantastic, well lit and good sized!

If you have any sort of interest in nature, astronomy, sports, or just about anything else which involves viewing objects at a distance, these are definitely the binoculars to try. You won't be disappointed.

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Final Cut Studio - Old Version

Final Cut Studio - Old Version
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
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I have been a Mac fanatic for years, and have been with FCP since v1.0. For the record, I am currently editing a series of complex one-hour docs now, one of them with FCP and another on Premiere, and am a corporate trainer on FCP. No editing package is perfect, and I can produce a perfectly good rant about Premiere's deficiencies, but on the balance I don't like working on FCP. (For the benefit of the Mac police, Windows 7 has been rock-solid, as much as I dislike working with it.)

To me, editing a complex project is like playing chess. When I am releasing the mouse button I am already thinking several moves ahead. With FCP, however, you have to hover over each edit. I can never quite get on a good creative roll because I am constantly diverted by having to manually perform some niggling little task that other editors do automatically, and the three-point editing model here practically demands you treat it like a linear editor. All the little things that you need automated aren't and all the big things you don't want are. The constant weight of little distractions makes for a long editing day.

Even if you disagree with everything I've said which is fine, we all work differently no serious editor can deny that FCP's browser is, well, terrible. Media management is a pain. It's inconceivable that the v1 browser is still with us. There is no icon view with comments, a miserable icon list view, icons do not automatically or conveniently arrange themselves (and when they do long file names prevent a clean arrangement), folders are poorly designed, long file names do not wrap or abbreviate, there is no indication if a clip has been used on the timeline. Yes it's true that you can perform an awkward clip search, which must be repeated for each edit (not does it address the bin you are working in but rather the entire project) but this is telling of the entire design. Functions that should be at your fingertips take a myriad of steps to accomplish. PLEASE Apple look at the browser in ANY competing project and GET A CLUE.

I would also add that this program does not play well with others. Unless you are going to import into the program direct from your source files, forget it. It won't read the most common file types. Even Apple's own .mov requires rendering. AVCHD? Not a chance. Not even mpeg4's. The last show I did had multiple file formats we gave up and moved to Premiere on a PC. It just was not worth the endless rendering and megafile sizes.

The good news is that FCP does the job and is reasonably stable (but not perfect), but I have found Apple's support team to have a poor knowledge of the product. If you like it, more power to you. But I'd rather keep my mind on the script or the client and not be absorbed with the constant hair-splitting details one must manage to operate this software. Isn't getting your mind off the interface what Apple's supposed to be about?

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Olympus PEN E-PL3 14-42mm 12.3 MP Interchangeable Lens Camera

Olympus PEN E-PL3 14-42mm 12.3 MP Interchangeable Lens Camera with CMOS Sensor and 3x Optical Zoom
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
List Price: $399.99
Sale Price: $249.99
Today's Bonus: 38% Off
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The axiom that is so true: The best camera for you is the camera that is with you! Grew tired of backaches while hiking with my Nikon DSLR gear, which increasingly never left the house. Bought an Olympus XZ-1 as a camera that could always be with me ... and was so impressed with it that I wanted its "big brother" for better image quality when on walkabouts or hiking. The Olympus P-3 seemed a bit too much; the PM-1 seemed a bit too little; the PL-3 seemed just right (especially with the tilting screen). The form factor and menu navigation features of the XZ-1 and PL-3 are very similar. The XZ-1 is pocketable; the PL-3 is not due to the protruding lenses. Getting some of the best photos of my life with both the XZ-1 and the PL-3 ... because they are with me.

There is another side to this, and that is that people often appear uncomfortable around people taking photos with large DSLRs with large protruding lenses. I feel none of this discomfort using either the XZ-1 or the PL-3 in public places.

Exploring capabilities with the Olympus 14-42mm kit lens and the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens (have the new Panasonic "X" lenses and the Olympus 45mm lens on order). The Panasonic 20mm is incredible small, making the PL-3 feel and operate like a small rangefinder camera. The f/1.7 lens allows one to take natural light photos in places impossible with slower lenses. The Olympus 14-42mm kit lens appears to be of high quality, although it does have a plastic lens mount (please manufacturers ... charge us the extra cost and ban plastic lens mounts!). The SLRgear website is an excellent place to compare lens quality with its graphs and metrics, and the Olympus kit lens fairs better than comparable lenses with metal mounts with respect to center and edge sharpness across the zoom spectrum.

On the downside, the PL-3 menu structure is difficult to navigate. One must do considerable research to become familiar with the options. Also, the LCD screen is excellent in all but bright sunlight. An Electronic Viewfinder (VF-2 or VF-3) is a necessity to do more than guess what you are photographing in bright sunlight. The add-on flash in the PL-3 kit is so small that it is only good for fill in or firing a larger flash such as the Olympus FL-36R via the RC flash capability. Wish that Olympus had something similar to the excellent Nikon SB-400 mini-flash for the Pen-series cameras. Finding it difficult to get the almost perfect bounce flash effect that the SB-400 provided in the FL-36R/add-on camera flash combination.

The movie quality in the PL-3 is excellent compared to my Nikon D5000 (in my experience "live view" in DSLRs tend to be a joke). The tilting LCD screen is proving especially handy for movies. As others have commented, the new Pen-series auto focus for movies tends to hunt but in my experience this happens only when when the subject is moving quickly or I fail to keep the camera steady (cameras belong on fluid-head tripods to take quality movies).

I've been a photo enthusiast since 1973 when one needed a SLR or medium-format camera to get acceptable image quality for 8x10 and 11x14 prints. I've followed and experienced the technology from film through the DSLRs to, now, the new ILCs. I'm amazed at the quality one can get from something the size of the PL-3!

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Drift Innovation HD170 Stealth Action Camera with HD Recording

Drift Innovation HD170 Stealth Action Camera with HD Recording, 4x Digital Zoom and 1.5-Inch LCD Screen
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
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I've had a chance to play around with the new Drift HD170 Stealth camera for a few weeks now and made a quick video just to show a few things I've tried with it. What makes it "stealth," I guess, is the new sleek black design (the casing of the unit is made from a durable black rubberized plastic). The bright orange face of the older model did likely call some attention to itself, and for some uses (i.e. stealth uses) that's a drawback. While the older model's bright colored face made it look fun, I think I do prefer the solid black and can see why they opted for it. The feature that makes this camera really stand out from other similar POV or "extreme sports" cameras, though, is the onboard LCD screen, that allows you to see what you are going to be capturing on the spot, so you can arrange the camera just as you like; it also allows you to go through the menu on the spot and adjust options depending on your needs at the moment. (You can set things up in the menu so that the LCD turns off after a minute of being unused so as to prolong the life of the battery).

What's struck me is that the real value of this camcorder is its combination of a rugged and durable design with its versatility. It's emphasized for use with extreme sports but it's useful pretty much anywhere you wouldn't risk another more fragile camera. It's water and weather resistant not water proof so you could use it in light rain, maybe even during a hurricane if it was securely mounted, but certainly in extreme conditions where you'd be worried about a standard camcorder. (I've heard that Drift Innovation the company that makes these will be coming out with a fully waterproof case for the Stealth some time soon so that you can add cliff diving and snorkeling to the list of extreme sports you can capture subjectively with the Stealth) The camera comes with three different mounts one that you can secure to any kind of narrow belt (and it comes with an elastic belt), one that you can put on a handlebar, and one that you can secure to a helmet with the included velcro adhesives. It's easy to orient the camera, even if you've got it mounted in an odd spot the shooting orientation can be changed simply by rotating the lens manually, and the quick release mount can also be rotated so that the unit can be oriented however you like with respect to the mount.

I'm not much of an extreme sports guy but I can see where this would come in handy for various types of video projects other than extreme sports, and I tried to illustrate a few possible uses in the video. You can mount it on a bike, a motorcycle, a skateboard, or on a 12-foot-long paint pole elevated over a car (as I did in the attached video, using the handlebar mount attached to the end of the pole). Obviously, I wouldn't want to put my Canon VIXIA HFS10 on top of a long pole like that because if it dropped or bumped into something it would almost certainly be damaged. While the Stealth is not damage proof it's a lot more rugged than a standard camera, and so it works great in lots of precarious situations. I used to think that when I needed an extreme shot the best option would be a relatively inexpensive camera like my Flip, that I could more afford to have damaged than my nicer camera but with this one the risk of serious damage is significantly diminished.

You can shoot decent photos (5 megapixels and they look fine, but as you'd expect on a device that's tailored for video capture they don't really compare to the images you'd capture on a compact camera in this price range expect a few notches up from the quality you'd capture on a phone and you won't be disappointed), and very cool time lapse sequences (with shooting intervals from 3 to 30 seconds apart), plus it takes surprisingly good HD video for such a small camera. It's not as nice or as versatile as my Canon, but the video is at least as good or better than what I can capture on my Flip Mino HD plus it's got a much wider lens, which is ideal for "point of view" shooting. At 720p it captures a 170 degree view, and it's got a bit of a fisheye effect which is kind of nice, it looks very cool with POV sports footage but could be effective in other applications as well. At 1080p it captures a slightly narrower range of 120 degrees, and there's less distortion, but not as many options for frame rates. At 720p you can shoot at frame rates from 25fps to 60, and shooting at 60fps allows you to slow the footage down in an editing program without things looking jerky as they would if you'd shot at a standard 30fps and then played back at an effective 15 frames per second. At 1080p you can shoot either 25 or 30fps. (You can also shoot standard definition video if you like). The video is encoded with H.264 in a Quicktime (.mov) wrapper so it's easy to import and play or edit in a variety of applications.

One other nice feature is that the set comes with a remote control "watch" you can wear it on your wrist (it's got a velcro band) and it has two buttons: for record and stop. There's a bit of a time lag on the stop function it takes a couple seconds and sometimes I've found I've had to press the button twice to get it to respond, but otherwise it works quite well. The weak element on the camera is the onboard mike it doesn't capture clear sound at all. It's noisy and would really only work as reference and not playback. In other words if you spoke into the mike or near the mike you would be able to hear what you'd said assuming you weren't on a motorcycle, or free falling from high altitudes and it might help you to remember something but you wouldn't want to even consider including the audio in a completed video. The main reason for the weakness of the mike seems to be that its input is protected by a rubber seal in order to ensure the water resistance of the unit. The real value of this camera is in capturing video you wouldn't be able (or willing) to capture in other ways. There is another option with this camera that not all cameras of this type allow, which is to plug in an external microphone but I'm pretty sure the input is proprietary, which means you either have to buy the mike from Drift or you have to buy one of the input cables for your mike from them. When you do use an external mike you have to keep the rear hatch of the camera open and Drift sells a kind of silicon boot to help keep things sealed and protected when the mike is connected and the door is open.

The Stealth is not a one-size-fits-all camcorder that will meet every need and wouldn't by any stretch replace a standard camcorder for ordinary shooting, especially given its fixed, extremely wide lens and its substandard onboard mike but it can capture images you'd never dream of trying to capture with your standard camcorder. If all you want to do is capture extreme sports from the point of view of the athlete, or other extreme images that would put an ordinary camera at risk, this would be a very good option. For someone like me, who only rarely has a need for "extreme sports footage," I know I won't use this all the time, but I'm very happy to have it in my "bag of tricks" because, as I think my little video shows, it's a very versatile camera that can capture some very cool and fairly good quality images and video that could fit nicely into a wide range of different kinds of video projects.

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Kodak Li-Ion Rechargeable Battery/KLIC 7001

Kodak Li-Ion Rechargeable Battery/KLIC 7001
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
List Price: $19.95
Sale Price: $9.99
Today's Bonus: 50% Off
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This is an excellent rechargable Lithium-IOn Batery brought to you by Kodak. Yet when purchasing a camera, please check the in-box content. Most-to-all cameras include this battery.Yet as a backup or replacement, this is your battery to use for your Kodak EasyShare

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Canon PIXMA iP100 Mobile Photo Printer

Canon PIXMA iP100 Mobile Photo Printer
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
List Price: $249.99
Sale Price: $166.16
Today's Bonus: 34% Off
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We bought this little gem to take to Europe. First impressions are very favorable. It's small, reliable, and prints beautifully. At just over four pounds, it's perfect for travel.

The little Bluetooth adaptor also works very well. Reading the manual (!), I discovered it is possible to mount the adapter permanently inside the printer so that it's not exposed and doesn't need attachment every time it is used. This is a simple procedure, and enhances the usefulness of the Bluetooth capability that is all but de rigueur when traveling. The installation / setup information is also in the electronic manual that comes on the CD.

But as good as the printer is, it does not come with (nor does Canon offer) a case of any kind. I found the perfect solution from Case-Mate: go to and buy the 'Glovez 15"' sleeve (like a large envelope with a velcro closure / flap). It comes in an assortment of colors and is a skin-tight (but very workable) fit in the 'length' direction. When inserted, the printer doesn't take up every bit of the case in the 'width' direction, meaning there is just enough room to also accommodate the cord and AC brick. Throw these in, close the flap, and you're always ready to roll.

Best part: this 'Glovez' sleeve is only $9.99 + $3.99 S/H, and gets to you in a few days. It's not bulky just what one wants to protect the printer but not take up room. (As an aside, the Case-Mate Glovez 13" [for the MacBook 13" and Air] fits the Lenovo ThinkPad X300 perfectly).

March 8, 2011: Came back (for the first time) to look over some of my reviews, and thought I would update this one. We took the printer to Europe for a month in the summer of 2008 (and, as noted by one of the commenters, it does indeed have a built-in usable voltage range of 100 240V, 50 60 Hz, so one needs only an adapter for local outlets, and not a transformer of any kind). It performed flawlessly then, and continues to do so today.

We take it everywhere. It goes in the bag wherever we go on vacation, or on business, and has never missed a beat. It sets up in an instant as soon as you get to your hotel room so easy to use. As stated before, I highly recommend the internally-mounting bluetooth adapter; it's never in the way, impossible to lose, and reliable. OK: Canon gets a small demerit for not building it in in the first place, but... With today's wireless-built-in portable PCs and other devices, it's a snap to hook up to the Internet within moments of arriving at your hotel, then send maps, proposals, anything else, etc. to the printer with no cables whatever. Especially good when both of us have our laptops out at a hotel room: we can both send jobs to the printer across the room without getting in each other's way. It's quick, reliable, durable, with various 'quality levels' available and I highly recommend it for mobile use.

I know Canon also makes a battery that 'bolts-on' to the back of this printer. For my application, the additional $100 wasn't worth the extra bulk to achieve a freedom from the electric grid that I didn't need. But if you conduct business in your pickup, or out in the field, it would certainly make sense: put the printer on the passenger seat and produce a customer invoice, etc. on the spot.

I seldom wax so enthusiastic over a product, and have been known to be excoriatingly critical of poor designs / execution. But Canon hit the nail dead center with this product: if you're in the market for a genuinely useful, rugged, portable printer get it. You will not regret the decision.

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