Showing posts with label canon eos digital camera. Show all posts
Showing posts with label canon eos digital camera. Show all posts

X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display Pro

X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display Pro
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
List Price: $269.00
Sale Price: $224.00
Today's Bonus: 17% Off
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Customer review from the Amazon Vine Program List of relevant hardware:

Apple 15.4-inch MacBook Pro MC723LL/A (hi-res antiglare)

Dell 24-inch UltraSharp U2410

Apple LED Cinema Display 27-Inch MC007LL/A

2007 Apple MacBook

I am a software engineer by trade, a photography enthusiast (Canon DSLR with Aperture) and a home video editor (Canon AVCHD with Final Cut Pro) at nights and weekends. I have been using a borrowed Spyder3Pro (S3P for short), which is a reference for this review.

X-Rite is perhaps the largest name in color matching products. It owns PANTONE and makes some of the most respected products. i1 Display Pro (i1D Pro for short) is its latest offering. The hardware is about the size of a memory card reader and smaller than S3P. Unlike S3P, i1D Pro has only the counterweight, lacking suction cups. The counterweight can be moved along the entire cable run. Counterweight is fine for most computer displays, but unusable when calibrating very large HDTV that some people use as a monitor or for HTPC (you will need to hold i1D Pro with your hand over 2 minute calibration run).

All in all, i1D Pro feels substantial and more high-end than S3P. It has a built-in diffuser to measure ambient light and it is capable of calibrating CRT, LCD (CCFL, variations of LED), and even projectors. It has a flare correction feature to compensate for glossy flat screen displays, such as 27" LED Cinema Display.

iD Pro includes i1Profiler software that runs on both Windows (untested) and Mac (tested on 10.7 Lion). Installation was mostly uneventful (and no reboot required), although it did prompt to me update to 1.1.1 (from 1.1.0) and register and activate the product (it otherwise becomes a 30-day trial demo app). The app resembles Apple's Aperture. Coming from S3P and television calibration experiences, I am pretty familiar with the art of display calibration and profiling. So I found the app to be fairly straightforward. Unlike S3P software, i1Profiler can calibrate luminance level as well.

I used advanced mode to calibrate all 4 displays. First, using the app's white patch measurement feature, I set luminance on my displays to as close to 100 cd/m2 as possible (by tinkering with brightness and/or contrast). 100 cd/m2 is below industry's recommended 120-140 range, but I find 120 to be just too darn bright.

The manual and online help are on the inadequate side, so if you are not familiar with profiling, you may want to visit the support section on X-Rite's website to get additional clarification. On the positive side, aside from selecting backlighting type (CCFL and white LED in my case) and luminance level, default recommended values are all good and should be ideal for all but advanced users with discriminating needs.

2 minutes later, I got ICC profiles with better color saturation, more accurate color, more natural whites, and/or deeper black level than S3P (when looking at before and after for various RAW files). The differences are sometimes subtle, but never worse and generally better. Comparing results to Mac OS X's default ICC profiles is much more dramatic, which tends to be very blue with limited color saturation and contrast level. Mac OS X's calibration mode can yield better results than the default, but still dramatically worse than i1D Pro's profiles.

On multi-monitor setup, dragging i1Profiler app from one display to another will let you calibrate other displays. The app can also measure your monitor for uniformity and color accuracy.

That said, the application did crash few times and UI is a bit unrefined here and there. For instance, all important measure button is often hidden, requiring a scroll down. Help icon next to some controls do not reveal any hints of any kind.

A companion piece is i1Profiler Tray, which can run continuously to remind you to recalibrate and uses i1D Pro to adjust for change in ambient light as needed. I am not a fan of ambience compensation, but it does work much better than Apple's built-in feature.

Also included is PANTONE Color Manager software.

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Pentax MX-1 Silver 12MP Digital Camera with 4x Optical Image

Pentax MX-1 Silver 12MP Digital Camera with 4x Optical Image Stabilized Zoom and 3-Inch LCD Display
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
List Price: $399.95
Sale Price: $249.00
Today's Bonus: 38% Off
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The more time I spend with my MX-1, the more I love it.

I like the image quality, its ISO range (100-12,800), the fast 1.8-2.5 lens, and the DUAL sensor Shake Reduction that allows me to take shots in low light or slow speeds, without blurring. Also remember it has the best ISO performance "for under $500" according to Dxomark (

I've found the tiltable screen to be a great feature for street photography, as I can tilt it and make like I'm reviewing or fiddling with the buttons, and make the shot surreptitiously without disturbing people ;)

The filters included (B&W, Sepia, Toy Camera, Retro, Extract Color, Fish Eye, Miniature, etc.) are fun to use (up to 20 filters can be combined and applied to the same image according to the user manual).

It also has a RAW development feature but I prefer to do it in my laptop.

HDR has worked very good at night and in landscapes and three modes are available: Standard, Strong 1, and Strong 2.

The 1cm macro is wonderful and I've enjoyed it shooting flowers and insects with very good results.

I take one star off for a few reasons:

1) the MX-1 can't take filters and I would like to use a polarizing, and permanently put an UV to protect the lens.

2) I find it annoying when I turn on the camera when the cap is on and I get a "Please confirm the lens cap is removed" message, and the camera then turns off. Maybe it can be corrected with a new firmware release. UPDATE: I NOTICED THAT THIS FEATURE CAN PREVENT THE LENS FROM ACCIDENTALLY EXTENDING WHEN INSIDE A CASE OR BAG! so it can be a good thing after all...

3) A hot shoe for a flash or external mic would've been a good addition.

I really hope Pentax releases a filter adapter (if possible), a good protector case, and more optional accessories for this camera.

P.S. By the way, I don't know why up to date (March 14th 2013), the MX-1 is not mentioned in Pentax's japanese website! maybe Japan is not the target of this camera??? (Update: On April 9th, MX-1 appeared on the mentioned website)

--

Update March 24th: Saving files when shooting in RAW is slow and a "Data being recorded" message appears in the screen and the camera freezes until the process finishes. I've made some tests with class 6 and class 10 cards and I've found that the fastest the card the better the writing speed -as one can expectbut even with a very fast card (Sandisk Pro 95mb/s), the message still appears. So that makes me think that the camera's algorithm is the culprit.

Also there is a "Deleting" message that appears every time I delete a photo and it takes like a second to disappear from the screen.

I'm sure a firmware update can change this and make the camera faster.

--

Update April 20th: 1) The MX-1 is really good for street photography! (I've done some more shots in public parks and the camera reacted fast focusing and taking the shot)

2) In bright sunny days photos have a blue cast that I think is because of the UV rays.

3) Some third-party lens adapters have appeared for the MX-1. Also, a few leather half camera cases are available now.

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Update May 6th: I video recorded a full rock concert (stopping after each song) and the battery (previously full charged) drained in a approximately 1 1/2 hours. It wasn't an issue as I took a couple of spare batteries with me. The recording was made in full HD, and the image & sound quality turned out very good.

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TomTom GO LIVE 2535M 5-Inch Bluetooth GPS Navigator with HD

TomTom GO LIVE 2535M 5-Inch Bluetooth GPS Navigator with HD Traffic, Lifetime Maps, and Voice Recognition(Discontinued by Manufacturer)
Customer Ratings: 3 stars
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UPD(Nov 2011): I thought I will update this review a little bit. Everything below still remains true. The only major change is that now the major competitor seems to be the new Nuvi series. Garmin finally made dramatic progress with their TrafficTrends and the routing on Nuvi 3490 is very similar to what IQRoutes on TomTom would give. I say below that if you live in a big city, you need TomTom. This is no longer a rock-solid statement. Garmin has created a viable alternative.

If you want a connected device, the choice is easy. At the moment 2535 is the only decent device on the market.

If you don't care if the device is connected or not, it's a tough call between 2535 and Garmin 3490. 2535 is still faster and a bit better and more stable in routing , but the gap is not as huge as it used to be. Given that Garmin 3490 has a better UI, it's a hard choice and boils down to your personal preferences. Personally, I will keep both for some time. I trust TomTom a bit more. Garmin is more usable.

The worst single thing about TomTom remains their "myTomTom" website and plug-in. This is the most ridiculous piece of software I have to use which has more bugs than features.

Besides LIVE functions, TomTom's main advantage remains "Map Corrections" feature. Even though map quality is lower than the maps that come with Garmins, you can make corrections like disabling roads, changing turn restrictions, etc. On Garmin you are effectively stuck with whatever Navteq provides them and map updates are painfully slow (custom avoidances don't help). As I say below, on top of map corrections there is also map share, i.e. ability to use corrections submitted by other users. It will work on older TomTom models, but is not available on new ones because of myTomTom...

I also had battery issues and after 6 months of usage TomTom replaced it with a new device with no questions asked. My respect for that.

That's all for the update. The rest is the review as of April.

Overall, a nice device. I'll mostly concentrate on comparing it to Garmin Nulink 1695 as these are the best connected devices on the market. You can check my feedback on 1695 for additional details. Significant part of this review will be generic to any Garmin vs TomTom comparison, so I'll start with LIVE services to knock down the essentials.

Both units do a good job, both offer 1 yr of free services, traffic, google local search and weather.Garmin seemed to be a bit faster but TomTom is ok.

Local search: same functionality on both. TomTom's presentation of results is a bit friendlier.

Weather: TomTom offers weather "near you", "near destination" and "near other point" that can be your POI or a recent destination. Garmin only gives "near you" or near a pre-defined city. TomTom gives more details, Garmin gives sunrise and sunset times. Garmin also offers weather radar for $30 a year. I like TomTom's version more. Miss the radar, but I can get it for free from Intellicast app anyway.

Gas prices: TomTom allows to search prices nearby, cheapest in area, of cheapest on route. This is much better than what Garmin has to offer. Garmin gives "as of" date for each gas station which helps to eliminate stale information. Overall, TomTom is better.

Speed cameras: allows you to view speed cameras and report on-the-fly. It comes for free on TomTom and costs ~$40/year on Garmin. Garmin's reporting is a bit easier.

Traffic: a big plus is that traffic information is received almost immediately and you don't have to wait for FM traffic information to get to your device. Other than that, I haven't seen much advantage of Live trafic compared to ClearChannel FM subscription. Even though traffic acquisition is almost instantaneous on a connected device, the quality of FM data is sometimes better. At one instance FM traffic on my older Garmin warned me about a traffic on NJ turnpike while I was 60 miles away. It took took more than an hour for this incident to be reported through HD traffic on TomTom. The info came too late for the detour to be optimal and incorrect location of the traffic jam made suggested detour useless. On the other hand, when I approached NYC 40 minutes later, HD traffic worked flawlessly, while FM traffic for NYC area was not acquired until I was 10 minutes away from home and successful avoided the traffic using TomTom HD data. This is just to illustrate that there is no "best" traffic at the moment. Both FM and HD can be right or wrong. As I've said before, the only obvious advantage of HD traffic is no delay for available data to get to your device.

Other than using traffic data for navigation, Garmin offers two excellent ways to see traffic in your area or in different cities: you can view color-coded traffic map or list all traffic incidence by distance. TomTom kind of has the same options but compared to Garmin they are too painful to use to be useful. It's a matter of representation only. As for using traffic data for optimal route planning, TomTom is very good.

Other things: Garmin offers local event search for art, music and sport events + movie times + flight status. I actually thought that searching movie times on Garmin was faster than on a smartphone and I liked the flight status option.

Live services summary: TomTom has a bit smaller set of Live features, but those that are available are more user friendly and offer more options. Connection seems to be reliable, delays acceptable.

Now some generic comparison. As I've said, most of it should apply to all new units from TomTom and should be similar to what you might read in reviews for other units.

Screen: bright and clear 5''. Initially I was in favor of smaller screen sizes, but after using Nulink for a while became a big fun of bigger screens. This unit has pretty much the same form factor as 1695, but looks and feels better.

Same cable (with removable connector) is used to connect the unit to USB port or to an in-vehicle DC outlet. In contrast, Garmin requires a separate proprietary USB cable to connect the unit to a PC and requires dashboard mount to connect the unit to the charger. TomTom's dashboard mount is a bit more reliable, while Garmin's is somewhat easier to detach.

Touchscreen is good, but typing is sometimes painful. Garmin and Go 930 are a bit easier to use. It could be my personal thing as other users tend to like the touchscreen a lot, but I tend to make way more typos on TomTom 2535 than on any other touchscreen device I've ever used in my life.

Navigation and route planning: this is where TomTom rocks and Garmin so far was not able to catch up. Thanks to IQ routes the ETA is very accurate. On busy streets you need TomTom if you want to get an accurate estimate of the arrival time. On highways Garmin performs equally well or better.

I have my favorite test routes in NYC that include different boroughs and road types. Here is a sample result of TomTom vs Garmin comparison.

Route 1: Estimated TomTom 22 min, Garmin 20 min, Actual driving time 30 min all due to traffic lights)

Route 2: Estimated TomTom 15 min, Garmin 9 min, Actual driving time 16 min

Route 3: Estimated TomTom 31 min, Garmin 27 min, Actual driving time 50 min 12 minute of bridge traffic that both units didn't know about + 7 traffic lights.)

Route 4: Estimated TomTom 38 min, Garmin 28 min, Actual driving time 39 min

Route 5: Estimated TomTom 16 min, Garmin 12 min, Actual driving time 15 min

I care a lot about accurate estimated travel time because it is necessary to calculate an optimal route. This becomes critical in densely populated areas where there are multiple ways to get between two points. For example, looking at travel time estimates for route 3, one might decide to take Garmin's route because it's estimated to be 4 minutes faster. In fact, following Garmin's directions would make it a 60, rather than 50 minute journey since it underestimates the travel time.

Overall, as you can see, TomTom's time estimate is not perfect either, but in many cases it comes pretty close to perfection.

Route calculation is quite fast, but not quite the immediate recalculation TomTom initially promised. Recalculation is reasonably fast but by no means immediate. Can take 30 seconds or more on a 30-mile route if you missed a turn and keep driving in the wrong direction. This is usually not an issue and recalculation takes just a few seconds if you're not far away from home or if there are not too many roads in the neighborhood. This is still much better than what Garmin used to have with their version of IQroutes.

Map display in browse map mode I would say on par, meaning equally bad. If you own an older Garmin unit, like 2xx or 7xx series, you will have to suffer for a few weeks before you give up and accept the new look.

Map display in 3D mode (navigation) Garmin has more clear indication of the next turn. TomTom often shows a more realistic curvature so that you can use the map on the screen to anticipate a sharp curve at night or in law visibility.

Overall, I think I like Garmin's representation more, except when I'm on mountain roads.

Voice prompts a bit better on Garmin. Always right on time. You can't miss a turn if you listed to Garmin's voice prompts.

Voice recognition works quite well on 2535. Not available on Nulink. The only problems I have with TomTom's voice recognition is that I can't make it understand 4-digit house numbers and that response time is a bit slow and it usually takes a few seconds for it to prepare for voice recognition. One just has to acknowledge that user interface is slow on this unit and one needs to be patient.

Lane assist, junction views and arrows indicating next turn much better on Garmin.

Ease of use on par. Just a few examples: selecting a new state is painful on Garmin. Avoiding/non-avoiding tolls for a given route requires multiple clicks to get through the menus, while TomTom just has an option to ask whether you want to avoid if a toll road is on the route. Saving a new favourite location, viewing the name of the city your are in, browsing POI is much easier on garmin. In general, TomTom made a step forward from 930 to 2535. Similarly, Garmin made a huge step backward when it introduced 1xxx and all subsequent series. As a result, in terms of usability TomTom and Garmin are on average the same, but details vary, so you might want to choose what is important for you.

Avoid part of route: available on TomTom, not available on Nulink(but implemented in newer non-connected 24xx series of Garmin GPS). This is a very useful feature to have.

Map corrections: you can make basic map edits for yourself on TomTom, like changing direction on a 1-way street. With garmin you'll have to wait for at least 6 months for the change to be reflected in the map update.

If you look at the main image of 2535 that TomTom posted here on Amazon, you will see a screenshot where a vehicle is driving on Chambers st in Downtown Manhattan towards Broadway. Ironically, several months ago Chambers street has been made one-way in the opposite direction. This is where map corrections come very handy. And by now I spent like 40 minutes bumping into similar issues and correcting them on my device. On older units you would have "map share" feature that allow you to accept corrections submitted by other users even if not verified by TomTom. On 2535 however, map share and many other features are currently disabled. Essentially, they've taken out a feature that is available on older and cheaper units and for the last 8 months (since the release in Europe) promise to re-enable it. So far it costs me 40 minutes of my time and I expect there will be more. This is one of the factors that influenced my rating. Don't get me wrong, Garmin users don't even dream about anything similar, but TomTom had it on older units, so it's reasonable to expect it now.

POI search and categorization better on Garmin, might be frustrating to find the right category on TomTom.

Map update: free for tomtom, $80 lifetime for Garmin.

Now the downside for 2535: the response is sometimes sluggish. There is a visible delay between the moment you click and icon and the moment the screen changes. It might be less than a second, but enough to make you think that the UI is not fast enough. If browsing multi-page search results, moving to the next page might take a while, especially when a vehicle is in motion. Similarly, if you tried google local search and couldn't find what you were looking for, there might be a 10+ second freezing time after you hit "cancel".

Comparison with TomTom Go 930: I'm not sure that at this stage it makes sense to update from 930 to 2535, unless you really want google search. 2535 has an updated user interface, but also fewer customization options. For example, speed limit indicator turns red when you are driving +5 to speed limit. There is no way to modify this behavior on 2535. I don't see much improvement in route recalculation times either.

All you're getting is a fancier look and restricted capabilities. Not worth it.

Also, as you probably know, no map updates, no voices and no extras can be installed on 2535 at the moment. TomTom released European version more than 6 months ago saying that update functionality will be available in the future. 6 months later the future is still not there.

To summarize: esthetically I prefer Garmin, while TomTom offers superior navigation. You can be happy with Garmin away from big cities. In fact, on a trip to North Carolina Outerbanks I used my old Garmin (255W) more often becase of amazing ease of use and a slightly better ETA on highways. However, you need at least some TomTom device if you're going to drive on NYC streets.

I've rated TomTom 2535 as 3 stars for now. Mostly because of

sluggish response

no immediate route recalculation

no updates.

TomTom has a track record of making improvements with software updates. It's not impossible for this unit to get 4 or 5 starts from me in the not-too-distant future. Regardless of the starts, TomTom is the best in route planning and with connected traffic this device supposedly offers the best routes on the market.

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Nikon D300 DX 12.3MP Digital SLR Camera (Body Only)

Nikon D300 DX 12.3MP Digital SLR Camera
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
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Since 2006 I have owned a D200 for serious shooting situations and I got a D40 in early '07 for everyday shots (an awesome camera I give it SIX stars! a whole separate review is needed!), and after hearing about the D300 release in late 2007 I debated over whether to get one. I was really happy with my D200, which I took on some overseas trips and it performed perfectly. After demo-ing a D300 in stores and reading some online reviews, I decided to take the plunge. It was a big investment but now I have no regrets if not for the entire package, then for one thing: COLOR! Or one more thing: what Nikon calls 'Active D-Lighting' (translation: a significant change in the processor's realistic rendition of contrast, highlights, shadows, etc. the entire package of "TONE"). Also can an LCD rear-screen get any better than this?? In Jim Cramer-parlance I have to say that this model is definitely "best of breed".

Pluses and minuses: (note: edited every once in a while since I've used it for almost 6 months now and thousands of captures last edit was done on 4/9/08)

PLUSES:

Incredibly vivid, pleasingly, really surprisingly saturated color reminiscent of Velvia (high-saturation Fuji film used in slides, etc.) is now made possible by selecting the "Vivid" option in the "Picture Control" menu and cranking up the "Saturation" option there are three levels beyond the default "0" which sets it just about at the highest possible saturation that could be set in the D200. Even boring photos of things around the home, outside, etc. seem interesting and... well, exciting and vivid... with it set at +2 or +3 (although the +3 setting is a bit extreme for people photos, and renders their skin color a bit more intense than appears naturally). At the +3 setting even blase photos of ordinary things approach purposely-understated "art" in a MoMA-like way. For people I am finding Vivid+1 or Vivid+2 a bit more natural indoors with natural light, as the Vivid+3 saturates just a bit more than I prefer. Just like Velvia, these settings also do not warm the cool colors one of the minuses of other cameras' 'vivid' settings this is what's best (your cool blues, greys, greens, etc. stay cool, while the reds, yellows, oranges, bright blues/greens/etc. watch out!) (Edited note: after about 3,000 shots I saw that indoors it might be best to do a manual white balance preset off a white wall or carpet or something and then shoot in vivid mode, since in the automatic WB mode the reds tend to get boosted quite a bit under typical indoor light and some of my subjects looked like they had a very dark suntan, or even a sunburn, in the middle of December! Careful with this... also tried standard i.e. not vivid color settings with +1 or +2 saturation, and these were very realistic, although the backgrounds can be dull if you're intent on vivid colors all-around. Maybe best to use those on portraits only. Try them all out and see what works best.)

On-board so-called "Active D-Lighting" renders shadows and highlights in an very realistic manner, with no raising up of delicate shadow tones to mid-levels (as my outstanding, near-perfect-in-its-class Nikon D40 tends to do) this really must be seen to be believed. Coupled with the color quality (and deep saturation noted above), the detail in the highlights is excellent. The D40/D200 have this feature in post-capture (i.e. you adjust the captured image yourself) but this seemed rather crude; here it is said that the Nikon actually computes the needed adjustment and does it specifically for the scene you've captured. No more blown or off-color highlights in those 'rare' occasions when overexposure seeps into a shot in a very contrasty frame.

The new LCD screen is 3" in size and has a whopping 920,000 pixels (versus 230,000 for the D200, D80, D40, etc.) of resolution which means image review to check focus, color, etc. is impossibly accurate and well beyond the already very high quality of Nikon's 2.5 inch screens and way, way beyond that of the Canons with the greenish-greyish-tinted LCDs even on expensive models like the much-venerated full-frame 5D. Doesn't even come with a LCD protector cover like the D200 did because it's made with tempered glass and is super resistant to scratching, damage, etc. No more looking through plastic however transparent when reviewing shots or setting colors, lighting, etc. (Kind of always bothered me, that.)

100% coverage viewfinder excellent, and not cluttered up, making composition cleaner; nothing engraved in the viewfinder to get in the way (although you can optionally set the horizon-level grid to be on all the time, which I do, since it leaves an open space in the middle anyway, and those off-balance shots are a pain to fix).

51-points of autofocus available at first I didn't really care much as I tend to do the old-school method of using one point for focus, then recomposing but I started using the 51-point AF mode (the full-rectange setting that uses all sensors) and found that I don't need to do this as the D300 always seems to pick the object I wanted to focus on making things much, much easier although for really unusual shots with a subject in focus and others way out of focus, I move to the manual mode; the AF system is excellent in speed and accurate tracking of the object of focus as well (i.e. a running child, etc.) The 51 points make this very easy to do. Fiddling around in the store I saw on the big $5k D3 the points are better looking (little red spots) and less intrusive when composing than these large-ish black rectangles on the D300, but I can live with that (although it reminds me "hey, you don't have a D3!...").

There were issues about firmware and exposure on the D40, D80, where they tended to expose too brightly, and we had to set it manually to -0.3 or -0.7 to get back to normal exposure. Not on the D300. Perfect all-around. Still, adjusting WB and exposure can make or break the shot. Especially nice is the cloudy or 'shadow' setting for indoor shots in bright sunlight; everything looks pleasingly warm, even if just a tinge more than natural. Give it a try if you like warm colors. Interesting shots can be had using 'tungsten' outside in the snow a blue-grey monochromatic world. (If you have snow, that is.) Manual WB setting is easy off of a wall, or carpet, or napkin, etc. as usual with the Nikons in this range, and makes quite a bit of difference in odd-lighting situations (i.e. very dim room, etc.) where the automatic presets, although excellent, don't work well (especially that 'tungsten' in normal home incandescent lighting in the evening everything is medium-blued-out who uses this? Or am I using it incorrectly? I set WB in that situation off the wall or rug.)

other than the full-frame sensor (no small difference, that is) and high FPS, there appears, from what I am reading, to be no major differences (unless you're a sports or news shooter) from the highly-lauded D3, which costs 3x what the D300 costs; the D3's awesome high ISO performance can be mimicked by turning off the high ISO noise reduction set "on" in the default mode in the D300 (see below) Of course, the D3 has many other features that make it best for pro sports shooters, etc. who need that size and power, and of course, full-frame has no comparison but I have a bag full of DX lenses (and some non-DX primes) and not ready to put out $10k+ for a D3 plus a 14-24, the new 24-70 and the 70-200, etc. that I'd want. The differences in picture quality due to the full-frame sensor (and other features I wouldn't need as I don't shoot sports or news) are outweighed by the cost involved and the marginal nature of the difference overall. Image quality is essentially the same except for the pluses of the full-frame, especially noticeable in really big prints. Also the usual full-frame focal length versus DX issue remains alive here yes, that "35mm on a DX is equivalent to a..." continues, and probably will as long as DX lenses remain in our bags. Edit: I have tried the D3 for a shooting session and it does focus incredibly fast, much faster than the D300 in some cases. The speed of the focusing and the shutter itself are unbelievable; that camera is the Ferrari or Lamborghini of Nikons. The D300 may be the Porsche hey, not a bad compromise it's unlikely that the average pro-sumer will need the power of the D3 (or of a Ferrari ever try to do 140mph on the NJ Turnpike?).

These were my big main pluses which justified the transition from the D200, but there are a few more which don't really appeal to me but will for some:

Live View (you can see the image on the LCD screen) perhaps this might appeal to a tripod-user setting up a photo, but I doubt I'll ever use it. Smacks of "point-and-shoot", I think, but could be handy in some cases where it is hard to position the eye at the viewfinder (behind the sofa?...) (Edited note: should not have panned this gave the camera to my 21 year old niece, who tried to take a Christmas portrait of my family and I together and got half of us in the bottom of the frame, and an empty top half of the frame! for those who basically grew up using live view digital cameras, this feature is very useful just set it and let them shoot I think the weight of the D300 and the fact that she had to use a (gasp!) viewfinder (as opposed to the RAZR internal cellphone camera) threw her off. Some creative cropping may save the shot, anyway.)

Ultrasonic Sensor Cleaner like the Canons and Pentaxes, Sonys, etc., Nikon finally offers a sensor cleaner (which is user-operated, not constantly running at each power-up if you set it that way). Might be useful after hard shooting in dusty or otherwise camera-unfriendly environments, but I never had the need for it on any camera I ever had up to now. Just one more thing to possibly go wrong someday?

HDMI output (if you're lucky enough to have one of those big-screen HDTVs and want to show your photos to all on the screen; I don't and won't)

12MP versus 10MP (for the D200) great marketing material but MP beyond 6-8MP or so has only marginal effect on the quality of the image and doesn't really matter ultimately since all it does it highlight the limitations of the lenses or the technique of the shooter; I suppose it is nice to have that much more information recorded ultimately if you choose (via the size/compression settings) but I shoot with "large normal" JPG and don't want 10MB+ file sizes when I'm making 5x7 or 8X10 prints at most (or way, way more MB for RAW files) I am reminded by a post/commentor that the higher MP will be beneficial when cropping a photo considerably for printing good point if you're taking 25% of that shot and cropping it, printing it out to 8x10, those 12MP will keep your image nice and sharp even at such extreme crops (provided, of course, you're using the big filesize settings and have lots of storage space in the form of CF cards, hard disk space, etc.) I don't do a lot of cropping and prefer to create in-camera since I have practically no time to fiddle with Photoshop and the rest.

the new grip (sold separately, of course) that goes with it doesn't stick far up into the camera, so you can use the camera's battery as well as those in the grip as well, and decide which to drain first, etc. With the grip you get more FPS for action photography but I don't do much of that, and for me the grip makes the whole package too big to fit in my current Lowepro bag (trivial but hey, it's one more thing).

if you've had any Nikon DSLR before, especially a D200, you will feel immediately at home, with no ramp-up period; you don't even need to open the sealed manual, since the new features are so easily located and adjusted that all you do is adjust your settings and start shooting; what won't feel immediately familiar is the super-bold color you'll notice on the intricately detailed 3" LCD. Of course, ergonomics are nearly perfect; this camera is like a brick wrapped watertight in rough-textured rubber, perfect to grip and hold for long periods of time.

Capture NX software is included get this free! in a selected number of initial sales of the D300. It's panned by some but, if you don't have another software package, it's not a bad thing to get a reasonably pro-quality image software package for free. The easy-to-use three-point pinpoint adjustment tool is excellent. Edit update there is a Mac Leopard (OS 10.5) version now available yeah! so all computing formats are supported.

MINUSES

Quite a bit more expensive than the D200 naturally, since it's a new model, but is it worth it? for me it was for the top two reasons; for others, the D200 (or the D80, or the D40) will be way more camera than is enough also still appears to be hard to get at the right price initially; some supply issues reminiscent of the D200 were being seen but appear to have levelled off; now it's hard, I hear, to get the D3.

When I initially got it I thought that for some reason the highest ISO settings (i.e. 6,400) seemed to lead to somewhat hazier shots, likely due to high ISO noise reduction that is set ON to 'Normal' in the factory default but who shoots up to ISO 6,400 anyway, unless you're shooting hand-held at faster shutter speeds in very dark environments? I had my D200 set for maximum 1,600 in Auto ISO and that was always more than enough. You can always turn the high ISO noise reduction completely off (or set it to low for just a touch of clean-up) and get back to the D200's, and close to the D3's, level of quality. I did this and had no more issues that initially concerned me, but a side-by-side comparison of a very magnified crop might yield otherwise. The ISO settings are also odd in that there is no stated ISO 100 but the camera does have ISO options which Nikon calls various degrees of "LO", confusingly; just need to learn the terminology and adapt. High ISO noise is also really only visible, however, if you make 3-foot-wide prints, mural-size images or crop and magnify on your computer screen to unrealistic levels and look really, really closely. You won't even notice on a 5X7 or 8X10, or bigger, print in normal circumstances. The fact that there is Auto ISO at all (versus not having it in the Canons) makes shooting a breeze; no fiddling around with ISO settings when you're trying to capture an image. (Edited note: lots of high ISO shots without NR on have been excellent throughout the holidays, including plenty of dark, candlelit tables, Christmas trees with onboard lights only on, outdoor shots of decor, etc. Not sure how noisy these would look blown up to big poster or mural-sized prints but for 8X10 or less, I am sure these are perfectly fine.)

Wish the flip-up flash would have a rotating bulb enclosure which you could point upward and get a bounce-flash for indoor people photographs; fairly sure no other DLSRs have this but it would eliminate me having to (buy first and) carry around a Speedlight for indoor shots (i.e. Christmas present-opening by the tree in low light, etc.) lest I get the white-ghost effect of direct flash from the onboard unit. I rarely use the onboard flash except for fill-flash outdoors, so it is somewhat less useful than I would like. Then again, Nikon needs to sell Speedlights, so... the SB-600 is a perfect match. The SB-400 is also a nice one if you're not doing shots with far-off subjects, and it fits nicely on the D40 as well.

I don't know if it's my imagination but it feels like the two spinning dials (on the front and back, for setting aperture, shutter speed, etc.) are a bit more recessed into the camera body than those on the D200; when I spin them I get memories of cheap 1970s electronics when I would push a button, and it would wind up moving itself inside the radio (or whatever) and getting stuck in there I sampled other demos on the store floor and they felt the same as mine maybe this is to prevent accidental movement when shooting? It's as if they are not at exact 90 degree angles to the camera body. Nice feel on the fingers, but I get memories of those "stuck buttons" when I use them sometimes.

it probably would be nice to be able to stuff a CF card and an SD card in the camera for memory options; I prefer CF cards for their durability, but dislike having to invest in two types of cards CF and SD for the D300 and the D40, respectively. Don't know who could possibly shoot so much to fill a full 8GB card (maybe if you shoot RAW+JPG, etc. for sports) but a two-card capacity would also be nice just to know it's there.

It's still not full-frame I know, it's not supposed to be, and most DSLRs aren't, but I might have paid another $500 (maybe $750?) if they'd made it full-frame. However, that means another $5Gs+ on 2 or 3 aforementioned full-frame wide-zooms (and effectively making obsolete my big 12-24mm wide, awesomely versatile 18-200mm, and sharp 70-300mm DX VRs) so probably better for the wallet that it's not.

No PC button: The new D3 pro version only available to select press members (the D3P, they're calling it) has a "PC" button for "Picture Control" that is, you can quickly switch between your own custom settings you set up in the menu for different picture parameters say, for landscapes, a high-saturation setting (i.e. "Vivid" with saturation cranked up), and for people, a medium-color setting ("Normal" with moderate saturation), etc. but on the D300 (and the normal D3, for that matter) you have to fiddle around with the menu. A button to be able to switch between picture settings would be a godsend for this camera; otherwise you might miss a shot switching from, say, a high-saturation, white-balance adjusted setting for a beach landscape, then trying to quickly capture your kids on that same beach which would give them instant sunburns (on the image!) due to the oversaturation and WB adjustment unless you go pressing buttons to get into the menus (with the sandy fingers) and fiddle around, making the change. I believe Canons have a button dedicated to this, which makes me wonder why Nikon isn't thinking ahead and, in typical Japanese fashion, copying the best ideas and features from its competitors.

Other than these few minor (for me) minuses, this camera's new color capabilities, wildly improved highlight-renditioning and other features more than justified my investment in it. I'm getting great captures from it. Naturally a lot of that is subjective best to try it out yourself and judge before taking the plunge. One look at the images, the LCD, and the other features, and this one might be the one that makes all the Canon owners squirm in their chairs and wonder what to do with all those expensive "white lenses" now that they will want this Nikon! (Not that I myself wouldn't mind having a 5D and a few of those white-bodied Canon L-series teles, of course!...)

Disclaimer: for quick shots around the house of my kids, etc., I still grab my D40 soon to have a new 18-55mm VR lens shortly shipping from Nikon! and capture away it's got to be the best camera in its class, and the images rival the D300 under normal conditions. It's when things get a little complex (low light, action, the saturated colors, high ISO situations, etc.) that the D300 excels. Especially the saturated colors! Never seen anything like this in a DSLR and I've had 'em all (Nikons) or tried 'em all (Canon, Pentax, Sony, Olympus...).

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Canon PowerShot G15 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 5x Wide-Angle

Canon PowerShot G15 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 5x Wide-Angle Optical Image Stabilized Zoom Deluxe Bundle With With 8 GB Secure Digital High Capacity Memory Card, Digpro Compact Camera Deluxe Carrying Case
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
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I thought the G15 would be good; I needed 'capability'..that is, really clear images and ability to work well in low light. Also needed a lighter camera than I had been using. I am still learning the G15 but find it easy to use and VERY capable. It is superb quality. Example of capability: watched the installation of a large stained glass window recently; finished about 10 pm. In low light conditions got a great shot of the glass (yes, lit from inside) and the brick building outside in the semi-dark. Auto mode, no flash. Great color, clear images.

Order/delivery through Amazon (Beach Camera) was quick and flawless.

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Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1 12.1MP Micro Four-Thirds Interchangeable

Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1 12.1MP Micro Four-Thirds Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera with 14-45mm Lens
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
List Price: $899.95
Sale Price: $849.99
Today's Bonus: 6% Off
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Bottom line up front: The elusive compact camera with interchangeable lenses, DLSR Image Quality, DSLR Focusing speed and DSLR performance has finally been made. It is the GF1.

I live in Japan so I have been lucky enough to have been playing with this camera since 18 Sep. This camera sold out on the first day from Bic Camera in Japan so it is going to be hard to get a hold of one. Please be aware that this camera is "region" coded so if you buy a Japanese version you will not be able to change the menu language to English.

This review is equally applicable to both versions of the GF1. I personally prefer the 20MM (40MM equivalent) f1.7 lens to the 14-45MM (28-90MM equivalent) f3.5-5.6 lens for the following reasons: 1) Since the m43 is relatively small compared to a full frame sensor you need a fast lens to get shallow depth of fields. 2) As a fast lens it is far more usable in low light situations. This lens is ~2 to 3.5 f stops faster than the 14-45MM lens. What this means is that given a certain situation, if you were to select the same shutter speed you would let in 4-11 times more light (Each full f stop change changes the light by 2. Going to a small f stop doubles the light. Therefore, you arrive at how much more light there is by raising 2 to the number of f stops. 2^2=4 and 2^3.5 =11) allowing the use of a lower ISO setting or you could set a 4-11 times faster shutter speed to allow you to prevent motion blurring. 3) This lens is smaller so it makes the camera eminently more portable. What you give up is the ability to zoom with your hand. There is a work around for this and it is called zooming with you feet. However, in confined situations, you may not be able to move back are far as you need to. If this is the type shooting you routinely do then the 14-45MM zoom is probably for you. For me, and I believe for most people, I like the great flexibility the faster lens gives me and I am not usually constrained by space. Additionally, the 20MM lens, in my non-scientific tests, appears to focus faster than the zoom. Both focus fast but the 20MM feels faster.

STILLS

This camera along with the G1 and GH1 has the best contrast detection autofocus on the market. It is as fast if not faster than my Nikon D40 and is almost as fast as my D700. This is a great technological breakthrough and is what allows the camera to be smaller than a DSLR while giving nearly identical performance. With this camera you will not miss photos of your children or other fast moving subjects while you wait for your camera to focus. Bravo.

On top of the great focusing performance , this fresh design allows this camera to handle exceedingly well. In many ways it takes the best of the point-and-shoot (P+S) world and mixes it with the best of the DSLR world. It doesn't have as many dedicated buttons as my D700 but the Q Menu system works very well and allows for quick changes of most shooting parameters. There is a detailed menu system but I don't find myself using it very much while shooting. I feel that this setup allows photographers moving up from the P+S world to feel immediately comfortable on this camera while also giving experienced photographers the control they need to work their craft. It seems many reviewers find fault with the Panasonic one control click wheel that changes aperture and shutter speed (other cameras have two wheels or have a button and 1 wheel combination). I actually prefer the click wheel on this camera. With the other types of setups (which I have on the D700 -two wheels and D40 -1 wheel plus button) I usually have to look away from the scene to find the other wheel or button. With the setup on this camera my finger is already close by the wheel and I just push it to change functions.

I don't know what kind of plastic Panasonic uses on this camera but I love the way it looks and feels. Also, I think having a red, white, or grey camera is cool (unfortunately only available in black in the US. The G1 was available in multiple colors but so far the GH1 and GF1 are "available in any color as long as it is black.") and this combined with its size makes it look more like a "consumer" camera rather than a "professional" camera. With the photographer unfriendly laws proliferating the world, it is nice to have an incredibly capable camera that doesn't look like a professional camera.

This is a micro-4/3s camera system. That has some pros and cons. The chip is smaller than most DSLR chips. A full frame (FX in Nikon speak) sensor is ~860 sq mm, a Nikon DX sensor is ~370 sq mm, the 4/3 sensor is ~225 sq mm, and the typical sensor used in a point and shoot range between ~25-50 sq mm. However, a 2/3 sensor like many TV shows are shot with is ~60 sq mm and a 1/4 sensor like most home video recorders is only ~10 sq mm. What does all of these numbers mean? From a "stills" perspective the 4/3 format is relatively small when compared to DSLRs. That means that for the same megapixel rating, the 4/3 sensor will have smaller photoreceptors and that means more noise. However, the 4/3 sensor is roughly 60% of a DX chip so while this is a great physics discussion, in real life you will not be able to tell the noise difference based on sensor size even with a picture blown up to 100%. This is born out by the GF1's excellent noise control up to ISO800. You can also still use shots taken at ISO 1600 and 3200 but those low light shots are usually better turned into black and whites for that noire grainy look. That is the "downside" (not really much of a downside especially when compared to the up side) of the micro 4/3 system. The upside is that because you have a smaller area to cover, you can make lenses smaller (less weight and less cost). You also get a 2x multiplication factor on your lenses. So now that 200mm lens gives you 400mm of reach. Yea. However, a down side of the 2x multiplication side is if you want to shoot wide. You need a 7mm lens to get a 14mm viewing angle and those can get pretty expensive (panasonic makes are really nice and small 7-14mm that is more expensive than this camera). The point of all of this mumbo jumbo is that this camera takes great pictures and the lenses are smaller than DSLR lenses. Less weight and smaller size with no practical image quality compromise equals great camera.

On thing that is a negative is the slow 1/160 flash sync speed. This will be very limiting for off camera flash during bright light. With such a slow sync it will be exceedingly difficult (impossible?) to get shallow depth of fields while lighting. Most people probably won't use this feature but for those that do it will be a bummer. (Super FP mode and ND filters can help with this though)

This camera, also, does not have in Camera IS. The IS is in the lenses. The reason that Canon, Nikon, Panasonic do this is they say on-lens IS performs better. From what I have seen that is a true statement. However, in camera IS is better than no IS. Also, this camera can mount lens from numerous other systems. None of those will have IS. If you have an on board IS, then all of those other lenses will now have IS. The Olympus E-P1 does have in camera IS. The camera has many flaws but that is a benefit. Also, the E-P2 is supposed to be announce on 31 Oct 09 so hopefully many of the flaws of the E-P1 will be fixed.

I also love the face recognition on this camera. When I am taking group photos, the faces that I really care about are my families'. Now I can register 6 peoples' faces and it will focus on them. Nice

VIDEO

In many ways, this camera lacks some of the features of a dedicated video recorder and doesn't do the 1080P of the GH1 or have the manual shutter speed control. So why would I want to use this camera for video. There are two main reasons. The first reason is Depth of Field (DOF). As I mentioned earlier the micro 4/3 sensor has 4 times more area than the 2/3 sensor used for many TV shows and is 22 times more area than many video recorders. Smaller sensors = larger DOF. This makes it harder to isolate your subject from the background by having the background out of focus. Pay attention to movies when you watch them and you will notice how they shift focus to "highlight" their subject. If you have wondered why you can't do that with a home video recorder, now you know. If you shoot with a F4 lens on a 4/3 system you will need a .8 aperture on a 1/4 system to get the same DOF (by the way there is no such home video recorder). The second major reason to use the GH1 is the ability to change lenses. Right now there are not many micro 4/3 lenses. However, the micro 4/3 format is so flexible that, with an adaptor you can use just about any camera lens you want (Nikon, Canon, Leica, etc). The trade off is that you lose autofocus with most non-4/3 lenses. The ability to change lenses grants two major benefits. First, you can put all sorts of exotic lenses on. For example if you put on a 7mm lens, you would give your video a perspective not often seen in home footage. On a 1/4 sensor of a video recorder you would need a 1.4mm lens to get the same perspective as the 7mm on the 4/3 system. (Most camcorders are not going to go wider than 4mm which is roughly equivalent to a 20mm lens on a 4/3 system.) Secondly, you can put exceedingly "fast" (a fast lens is one with a low aperture number. A lower aperture number means more light hitting the sensor so you can run your shutter speed faster. Hence fast lens) lenses on to get shallow DOF. You could easily put a f1.4 lens on this camera. You would need a f0.3 lens to get the equivalent DOF on a 1/4 sensor.

Anyway, it is relatively easy to make beautiful videos with this camera. It does not do 1080P. However, I don't think that will be a loss to most. The GH1 1080P files are much bigger, require more post work to achieve really good results, and, from normal sitting distances, most people can't tell the difference between 720P and 1080P. Also, in the movie mode you can set aperture but the camera will set the shutter speed automatically. This leads to a caveat that you need to be aware of when shooting movies with this camera. If you want to use the wider apertures in bright light to get the smaller depth of fields then you will need some neutral density filters to put over the lens. As a rule of thumb you want your shutter speed to be twice the frame rate. So you need to shoot at 1/120. On a bright day at f1.7 you could easily need 1/9600 to properly expose at ISO200 (Well beyond the camera 1/4000 shutter limit). 5 to 6 Stops of ND would get the camera to set the shutter speed around 1/120. If you just set the camera on automatic it will take care of the exposure for you so you can just press the record button and go. However, one of the reasons to step up to a camera like this is take some control for yourself and create some art from within.

I will finish this review by making some comparison between some other camera choices out there.

First, this camera works very similar to the G1 and GH1 so what people have said about those cameras applies to the GF1. The big difference is the GF1 is smaller, the G1 doesn't do video, the GH1 can do 1080P, the GF1 does not come with a Electronic View FInder, the GF1 separate EVF is not in the same league with the G1 and GH1, and finally, the GF1 does not have an articulated screen like the G1 and GH1 do.

GF1 vs GH1 vs G1 vs Olympus PEN E-P1 vs Canon G11 (Not yet released)

GF1

Pros:

Smallest camera in the world with DSLR performance

Blazing focus performance

Great Picture Quality

HD 720P video capability

Compatibility with nearly every lens every made including Leica, Nikon, Canon, etc (you do need to purchase an adaptor to do this and you do lose auto focus in most instances)

Great Handling

Cons:

No built in EVF (add on not in the same league as G1 and GH1)

Live View screen not articulated

Hard to find

Relatively expensive

Only Black in the US

Who's it for?: Anyone who want to have a small compact and lightweight camera that packs the performance and features of DSLR. It does nice video but not nearly as well as the GH1.

Panasonic DMC-GH1 12MP Four Thirds Interchangeable Lens Camera with 1080p HD Video

Pros:

Blazing focus performance

Great Picture Quality

HD 1080P video capability

Compatibility with nearly every lens every made including Leica, Nikon, Canon, etc (you do need to purchase an adaptor to do this and you do lose auto focus in most instances)

Best EVF seen to date

Awesome articulated Live View screen

Best Implementation of video in a "stills" camera

Great Handling

Cons:

Expensive

Hard to find

Only Black in the US

Who's it for?: Anyone looking to have a camera that takes great still images and has best seen to date video integration in one package. Larger than the GF1 but worth it if you are serious about your video.

Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 12.1MP Digital Camera with Lumix G Vario 14-45 mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH Mega OIS Lens (Blue)

Pros:

Blazing focus performance

Great Picture Quality

Compatibility with nearly every lens every made including Leica, Nikon, Canon, etc (you do need to purchase an adaptor to do this and you do lose auto focus in most instances)

Best EVF seen to date

Awesome articulated Live View screen

Great Handling

Cons:

No Video

Who's it for?: Anyone who wants an all around great stills camera and wants to save money by not paying for video features.

Olympus PEN E-P1 12.3 MP Micro Four Thirds Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera with 17mm f/2.8 Lens and Viewfinder (Silver)

Pros:

Small Size

Great Picture Quality

HD 720P video capability

Compatibility with nearly every lens every made including Leica, Nikon, Canon, etc (you do need to purchase an adaptor to do this and you do lose auto focus in most instances)

Image Stabilization(IS) built into the camera not the lens (it makes no IS lenses into IS lenses!)

Styling of the camera has Cache. (I personally prefer the GF1 but there are a lot of people commenting on how nice the PEN looks)

Cons:

Abysmal focus performance (worse than most point and shoot cameras)

No flash

Incredibly poor low res live view screen (The GF1 has twice the resolution as the E-P1)

(I would really only recommend this camera to someone who has lenses from other systems that is looking to make them Image Stabilized and is willing to manually focus them.)

Who's it for? Anyone who wants to have a small compact and lightweight camera with great image quality, are not concerned about focus speed/flash and want to use the in camera IS to stabilize non-IS lenses.

Canon PowerShot G11 10MP Digital Camera with 5x Wide Angle Optical Stabilized Zoom and 2.8-inch articulating LCD

Note this camera is not out yet and I have not gotten my hands on one yet. I have seen sample photographs from this camera however. I was blown away with how noise free they were at ISO 3200. I don't know if this is from aggressive noise reduction smearing detail, the decrease from 14.7 MP to 10MP or the increase in the chip size. Either way I think it is worth considering because of the all in one aspect and low price)

Pros:

Smaller Size than any other camera listed here

Great Picture Quality(??)

All in one package and lens (28-140MM) no need to buy other lenses

Optical View Finder

Articulated Live View Screen

1/2000 flash sync speed!

Impeccable construction quality (Built from metal tough and heavy)

Built in flash

Built in ND filter on Lens

Relatively Inexpensive

Cons:

No HD movies (640x480 is the largest movie format)

Can't swap lenses (this is both a plus and minus and there are modifiers you can put on to make the lens "wider" or "longer")

Small Sensor (1/1.7 sensor is only 43 square mm compared to 225 for the m43. This usually equates to poor ISO performance all thing being equal. It seems Canon has figured out how to make things not equal. However, if shallow depth of fields are your thing then look elsewhere.)

Who's it for? Anyone who wants a tougher and more portable camera than any other listed here, with great(??) image quality in a all-in-one package with nothing else to buy.

As I mentioned before, this camera is not out yet so you have to keep that caveat in mind. However, after seen the ISO3200 samples, I am now strongly considering this camera.

OVERALL

The Panasonic GF1 is a fantastic camera and the first to deliver on the promise of a compact camera with DSLR performance and image quality. It obviously has places in which it can improve. However, for the current state-of-the-art, this camera is the best performing small camera available. Panasonic's contrast detect autofocus has raised the bar and no more excuses can be made for this type of autofocus system. (It probably heralds the extinction of the DSLR) Based around this, Panasonic has engineered the worlds first compact camera with "DSLR" level performance and has created an outstanding stills camera with good HD video camera capabilities. It's a great time to be a photographer!

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Samsung UN60C6300 60-Inch 1080p 120 Hz LED HDTV, Black (2010

Samsung UN60C6300 60-Inch 1080p 120 Hz LED HDTV, Black
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
List Price: $2,999.99
Sale Price: $2,499.99
Today's Bonus: 17% Off
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We're very happy with this TV... it's picture is surreal, I mean literally surreal, it honestly seems 3D when watching movies, not even Blu-ray but regular DVDs or even HD TV broadcasts. It actually takes a little bit of getting used to, since it is so much clearer and more 3D-ish than previous plasma screens. But we really like the effect.

We did have a minor issue when watching some broadcast movie channels that the picture seemed just a little bit "jerky", but we found a forum that talked about how some movies have a different transmission or screen refresh rate that result sin the timing being a little off, and suggested changing one picture setting on the TV. we haven't had the problem since.

I saw one review that said that the edges were darker than the middle on LED TVs of this size, but I haven't seen anything like that on ours.

UPDATE 9/6: Yes, this TV is still incredible 2 months after purchase. A user asked me what setting we were referring to that we changed in the above review: it was the auto motion plus in the "picture" menu. Haven't had any problems or any jerky screens since.

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Sony DSC-QX10/W DSC-QX10 DSCQX10W QX10 QX10W (White) Smartphone

Sony DSC-QX10/W DSC-QX10 DSCQX10W QX10 QX10W Smartphone Attachable 4.45-44.5mm Lens-Style Camera BUNDLE with 32GB High Speed Micro SD Card, Spare Battery, Carrying Case, Smartphone Stylus, Table Tripod, All in One USB Card Reader and Lens Cleaner
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
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this a unique item and premium camera made by sony .. the pic qualities are remarkable.. the quality of the camera is amazing but the accessories are offered are very cheap.

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Dolica AX620B100 62-Inch Proline Tripod and Ball Head

Dolica AX620B100 62-Inch Proline Tripod and Ball Head
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
List Price: $65.99
Sale Price: $43.39
Today's Bonus: 34% Off
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It is made out of aluminum. Light enough to carry around the whole day yet still very sturdy. The aluminum ball head actually performs well. Once you've got the desired angle and lock it in place, the camera will stay on that angle until you release the lock unlike my 20 usd tripod. Im using a d80 with 18-270mm lens attached. That's about 1.2kg weight. The tripod is rated by the manufacturer to handle up to 13 lbs of equipment. Other features are a quick release plate, 2 bubble levels ( one on the head and the other on the legs), user replaceable aluminum tripod head, a threaded weight hook and spiked feet. The tripod can also converted so you can take macro shots. The legs can be locked in position independent of one another. With all these features plus great performance, this tripod is a steal!

One minor hiccup, the plastic on the leg clamps, while not cheap, isnt top of the line. But they get the job done so it a no issue for me

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Pentax Optio WG-2 Adventure Series 16 MP Waterproof Digital

Pentax Optio WG-2 Adventure Series 16 MP Waterproof Digital Camera with 5 X Optical Zoom 8GB SD HC Card Battery and More Accessory Saver Bundle
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
List Price: $549.95
Sale Price: $234.19
Today's Bonus: 57% Off
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I bought this camera with months of research on many types of cameras. I orgianlly was going to buy a cheaper camera but decided to spend the extra money for something I will have for many years to come. We went on vacation and put it to test after we got it. We took it to a waterpark and just clipped it to our swim suites and had hours of fun. I loved the expression we got from other people thinking "haha you forgot to leave your camera on the table" but once they saw us taking pictures they would all look and you could see the envy. The battery lasted all day and the pictures and videos were great. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this camera. Buy it with the knowledge that you will never regret it and is worth the extra money.

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Tenba ShootoutTM Backpack - Medium

Tenba 632-312 Shootout Medium Backpack
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
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First off, this is a great backpack all around. I travel a lot and was looking for something to protect my gear and this does the job. Here are the pros and cons.

Pros:

* Very Sturdy

* Rugged Material

* Lots of space

* Great straps

* Nice features that are thought out with a few exceptions

Cons:

* Sometimes a little too stiff

* Side compartments are small and access to main pack is awkward/useless

* Internal dividers are set up nice but can waste some space

* Some features are not too thought out while others are (a pro and con)

* TIGHT laptop storage

The material is very sturdy. This backpack doesn't feel like it will ever rip and I am sure it is cut resistant. Anybody trying to get at your gear will have a tough time, sometimes even you! I have a Canon 7d that I leave a EF 24-70mm F2.8 L lens attached and at first, I wanted to make it accessible through the side compartment. That is not going to happen, especially with the lens hood stored as Canon suggests. There is a flap that separates the side compartment from the main compartment that has Velcro which makes it so things do not fall into the side compartment but also makes it almost impossible to use as a quick camera access. In addition, the side zippers only open half way so there is no way you will get a bigger SLR out fast. You have to put it in so it can be accessed by the main zipper. It is still tight because the top of the bag is so thick and the zippers are tight due to the weatherproofing. A pro and a con.

I also store a 70-200mm f4.0 is L lens in the bag. The bag is pretty deep so you naturally end up stacking stuff which makes it a little hard to get to stuff but the lens is protected very well. It is not deep enough to put the lens in upright so again, it lays down with either a flash or a computer power cord on it. Not exactly a fast access to either because as the laws of the universe dictate, the thing you need will always be on the bottom.

As far as a laptop, it looks like you could store two in the compartment but don't be fooled. Again, the bag stiffness prevents two and almost makes it hard to get in one. The zipper on the compartment does not open to access the entire top so the laptop is hard in and hard out. It is very tight. I don't consider my laptop to be very big but if it were any thicker or wider, there is no way it would fit. The nice thing is, once it is in there, it is protected like you had armor around it, which is the positive theme of the bag.

A really cool thing is the cover that goes over the straps when you are not using the backpack portion. They are entirely enclosed under the zipper cover which is great for the overhead on planes. There are no straps to tuck in the overhead compartment and close in the compartment door on the plane. The cover then tucks up under a back flap to expose the straps which are very comfortable. Again, an issue is, when the backpack is loaded, it is so tight that it is actually hard to slide the cover up under the pack in its proper position. One nice thing would be to have the cover start zipping up over the bottom of the strap so you could keep one strap out to use it as a sling for carrying it in situations where you want to use one strap for fast carrying. With my previous bag, I used the one shoulder carry a lot.

The inside zipper compartments are nice but again, tight. You can't fit too much in them. Temba should have allowed a little more material but it may be so stuff does not slide around. B+W filters in cases are actually tight in the compartments. They do have a great feature which is they zipper open/closed from both sides, left and right so there is no digging around in them.

I don't want to sound negative on the pack, it is an incredible bag. Like I mentioned in the pros, it is super tough. You can tell they spared no expense with the water proofing. I would have no problem caught in a downpour with this thing. Your gear is VERY well protected which is most important to me. When you have over 5k sitting in a bag, you don't want it to be unprotected. I am sure the gear inside could survive small falls.

Would I recommend the bag. Simply put, yes. I don't think the "perfect" bag exists. It can't because if you are like me, you want something magical that defies the laws of physics. I want to be able to put 50 pounds of gear including a tripod in a very small pack and in the end, have it weigh 10 pounds. It is not going to happen. With no magical pack available, this is the closest you will come if you want to carry a lot of stuff and have it well protected from the elements, the occasional drop, the elements and the opportunistic person that wants your gear. Overall, good job Temba for trying to satisfy us semi-pros that want it all. I would buy this again.

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Canon PowerShot SX50 HS 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 50x Optical

Canon PowerShot SX50 HS 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 50x Optical IS Zoom + NB-10L Battery + 8pc Bundle 16GB Deluxe Accessory Kit
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
List Price: $534.99
Sale Price: $389.95
Today's Bonus: 27% Off
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Main objection, other than soft photos, is that the control dial cannot be reliably used [as necessary in manual mode for selecting shutter speed and aperture, and for manual focusing] without inadvertently pressing, and thus actuating, one of the other functions on the wheel, typically the iso but sometimes the self timer, although there are two other functions that can be pressed as well, putting the camera into a different configuration. This poor design places this otherwise nice point-and-shoot superzoom camera in a class all by itself...a compromise at best. A redesign with a much stronger spring to actuate the four functions would probably fix this deficiency. Not sure of Canon's track record of installing kits to correct known problems. If the camera will not be used in manual mode and if soft photos are ok, the camera would be quite acceptable. The HD capability, slow motion, as well as numerous other features are cool, but not at the expense of manual mode. Oh, the battery is fantastic...made well over 400 shots on one charge. Beats rechargable AA batteries (that will not work in my other Canon or probably any other Canon).

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Sony Alpha DSLRA300X 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with Super

Sony Alpha DSLRA300X 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with Super SteadyShot Image Stabilization with DT 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6 & DT 55-200mm f/4-5.6 Zoom Lenses
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
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Having previously reviewed the Alpha 200 and 350, it seems a bit silly to review the Alpha 300. After all, the Alpha 300 is a 200 with Live View, or a 350 with 10 megapixels instead of 14mp. Right?

Well, pretty much that's the case. But there is also a corresponding price difference. Is Live View worth an extra $100? Is 14mp worth an extra $200?

For my money, yes, Live View is worth the $100 because of the way Sony has implemented this feature. Unlike most systems, you won't see a loss in autofocusing performance (or a loss of autofocus completely), nor will you alter the way the exposure and white balance are determined. Add to this the articulated screen that makes extremely low or high angle shots easier, and I say "YES"! Any drawbacks? Yes, this screen is a bit thicker, and pushes you back a bit when looking through the camera. Also, the way Sony implements Live View does mean you only see 90 percent of what you'll get on the image.

OK, is 14mp worth the extra $200? I don't know, but I don't think so. We really need more critical comparisons from people with true scientific methods of measuring the difference in image quality, but there are a few assumptions that will probably hold true, based on previous cameras. The 14mp will give a superior image in good lighting, when ISO values (the fake "film" speeds) can be set to higher quality settings. You won't see this difference on an 8x10 standard photo, but probably could in very big enlargements or severe cropping of photos. Keep in mind that the "1.4x and 2x teleconverter" option you have with Live View is nothing more than cropping, with 2x dropping your effective megapixels in half.

Past cameras would suggest, however, that the higher pixel density of the 14mp camera would be a drawback in low light conditions, in particular when we have to raise the ISO settings. Thus, they may not even be as good as the 10mp sensor for these applications (but we still need critical testing to confirm this assumption).

So, for my money, I'd say the 14mp is probably not worth the money for someone shooting an even variety of shoots, but might be for a landscape/wildlife photographer.

Compared to other brands, I think the Alpha 300 wins on features compared to the Canon Digital Rebel XTi or Nikon D60 (Live View, stabalization in body). The new 12mp Canon XSi is more in the price range of the 14mp Alpha 350. In any case, with 3 new Alphas, and the new D60 and XSi, there's no more excuses! Get a camera and start taking great photos!

Sony Alpha A200K 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera Kit with Super SteadyShot Image Stabilization with 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6 Lens

Sony Alpha DSLRA350K 14.2MP Digital SLR Camera with Super SteadyShot Image Stabilization DT 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6 Zoom Lens

Nikon D60 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens

Canon Digital Rebel XSi 12MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black)

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Canon Powershot A1200 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 4x Optical

Canon Powershot A1200 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 4x Optical Zoom
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
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The Canon A1200 has the features which we value most and as such, is our favorite digital camera. In particular,

* It can take wide angle photos the equivalent of 28mm on the older film SLR's

* It uses 2 AA batteries which is great especially when traveling overseas. In the past, we encountered too many occasions when a battery became exhausted in the middle of the day or could not be recharged at night. This was especially true when traveling overseas. So now we only consider cameras which use AA batteries because they can be purchased almost anywhere.

* It takes HD video.

* Its size is compact and can easily fit in a pocket or purse. Years ago, I enjoyed taking photos with SLR's and wore out 3 of them (the film versions). However, I missed many shots on vacation because I did not want to carry an SLR everywhere I went. The compact size of the A1200 allows us to carry it everywhere with ease. And it takes high quality photos.

* This camera does not offer as many options as some others. However, it gives you the options people use most of the time. I do not miss the other ones.

There are a few negatives. Cords to connect the camera to a TV or DVD recorder are sold separately. And it is difficult to force the camera to flash it wants you to choose the mode and it will decide whether to use the flash. Also, this camera does not have the option to merge 2 or 3 shots into a panoramic picture. And it does not zoom in as close as some other cameras. All that said, we shopped around a lot and, in our opinion, the A1200 has the best combination of features and size.

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Sony HVLF43M High Power Flash with Quick Shift Bounce (Black)

Sony HVLF43M High Power Flash with Quick Shift Bounce
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
List Price: $399.99
Sale Price: $399.00
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Just like it's predecessor, the (Sony HVL-F43AM Sony Alpha System HVL-F43AM Flash Unit for Alpha DSLR) which I reviewed a while ago and still own, this makes for a very solid external flash option for newer Sony camerasthe big change of course is the new F43M unit uses the new MIS (Multi Interface Shoe) interface. It still has these features:

Sony's unique swivel head design ("Quick Shift Bounce"), probably this flash unit's best feature, for changing bounce angles and easy switching to and from landscape and portrait shooting by a quick flick of the hand.. the F43M/AM is Sony's smallest flash unit with this feature, which makes it leagues better than the F20M/AM. Angles range from 8 to 150 degrees vertically and 90 degrees each side.

Guide Number of 43, which is plenty powerful for bounce flash use for most uses. How powerful is this? Well with the camera set to ISO 100, it gave me overly-white (overexposed) shots until I had stopped down aperture to F/22, 1/250 sec. in my living room with a white ceiling. At full power, it can fire another in 2.9 seconds or pretty much without any delay for most power levels. I imagine a working professional may want more headroom (ex. with the larger F60M) for dealing with darker, higher ceilings.

a built-in, pull-out wide angle diffuser and white bounce cardthe diffuser is very handy for ensuring even bounce flash coverage with irregular ceilings during busy events like weddings and the bounce card can provide additional highlights to your subjects' eyes; these take up no additional space in your bag and I actually leave the STO-FEN Omni-Bounce OM-EW attachment at home most of the time.

comes with a foldable stand and a cushioned zipper case (note the omission of the orange Alpha logo on both the case and flash head, as is the case with recent Sony camera products, which strangely makes the unit seem more premium)

supports HSS (high-speed sync.)basically allows shooting at shutter speeds beyond your camera's x-sync speed (1/250 on the A99, which is properly exposed with this flash, BTW) up towards your camera's fastest shutter speed (I've tested 1/8000 on the A99) and is very handy for overpowering ambient lighting

can work wirelessly and be triggered by your camera's built-in flash, or in the case of full-frame cameras like the A99 with no included flash, can also be triggered by another external flash mounted on the camera. For my purposes, the F43M is on top of the A99 and the F43AM acts as the wireless flashI tested firing a long wireless flash burst on high-speed drive (6fps) and both flash units worked in unison to get perfect flash exposures in wicked-fast wireless fashion all the way until the camera itself hit its (RAW) buffer limit. Sony's specs indicate the flash can work well up to continuous shooting of 10fps.

can act as a flash controller for other wireless flashes and has ratio control for creative use

TTLand with the A99, so long as there is sufficient light and the flash is not wrongly bounced or blocked, it seems every shot is perfectly.. I mean PERFECTLY AND CONSISTENTLY exposed

manual mode for the experts (I've never operated in a studio and my shooting style has not called for using manual, though I did test overheating this flash on manual mode..) and the ability to fire at a continuous strobe for multiple exposures in 1 shot (ex. total of 5 flashes, every half a second).

has an effective and wide AF-assist beam. On the A99, which comes with a bright AF-assist for the center focusing points, I observed that sometimes it uses the A99's built-in AF-assist beam and other times the F43M's. I'm not sure what the logic is but locking focus in dark environments where phase-detect normally would struggle or a plain white wall works very well.

auto-zoom from 24mm to 105mm (and as wide as 15mm with the wide angle diffuser)

test and modeling flash, which may be set to fire in a short burst

it is weather-sealed, though I cannot validate this nor am I willing to test this in pouring rain. I can say the battery compartment has the proper seals and all buttons feel damped. Also the swivel action of the flash head feels very solid, even more so than the F43AM, though it could just be needing breaking-in.

has a nice amber LCD backlight and matching amber LED flash-is-ready-to-fire indicator / test button.

continues to use (boring old) AA batteries, granted most flashes in the market do and working pros may prefer this... I'm still looking forward to a flash unit with a lithium pack for a reduction in size and weight! Oh well, though I've been using and like the eneloop XX 2500mAh Typical / 2400 mAh Minimum, High Capacity, 4 Pack AA Ni-MH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries.

So what's changed over the F43AM?

a built-in LED light which the specs indicate are 400 lx at 0.5 m or 100 lx at 1 meter; you can adjust the power levels from 1 to 10 on the flash unit. The dimmest setting is not so bad for people in the vicinity (and is already much more bright than the an iPhone's LED flash), though at level 10, even people wearing sunglasses will be complainingeveryone else will be momentarily blinded, as this reviewer was when testing it. The LED light can be only be used independently of the main flash and is activated by a button on the side of the unit. It can be used without the flash unit being mounted on the camera, which expands its creative use. It can be used as solid-state lighting for taking pictures for when you don't want to strobe and becomes very useful for taking video. There is only a single bright LED but the reflector design works well and you end up with a very even spread of white light in a large egg shape. Video professionals may still want to opt for a dedicated LED panel with dozens or hundreds of LEDs for more power and a softer effect from a larger light source.

flash exposure compensation is now featured prominently on the flash so you have direct access to it just by pressing the up and down keys, see it right on the flash unit's LCD, and not have to dive into a menu in the camera to change thisthis was relatively quick with the A99's Function menu or Quick Navi interface, but this saves steps with the camera's buttons and joystick. This is a big usability plus especially during a busy shoot! Thanks to Gary Friedman's article about recent Sony Alphas dealing with flash exposure differently, I have FEC set to -0.7 EV most of the time for natural-looking exposures; I currently do this with FEC on the A99 permanently set to -0.7 EV and 0 EV on the F43M. Should I want to manipulate the FEC depending on the scene, I would just make adjustments on the flash unit.

the new hotshoe mount is very nice. It's very firm and secure on both the camera shoe and the flash unit's stand and has a reassuring locking lever, which also employs 2 locking pins which stops any movement. To release the flash unit, a button on the lever needs to be depressed. One of the unfortunate changes Sony has made in the transition to the ISO hotshoe from its (much-loved by Sony users / hated by all others) auto-lock shoe was with the adapter that came included on its newer cameras and caused older flash units to slip off even with proper tightening because it did not have a locking pin. I've been dreading the F43AM on the adapter falling off with each outing and it hasn't been until this F43M that I no longer have to worry about that. The shoe is still made of plastic, though that has the upside of not damaging the camera hotshoe or flash should something cause heavy stress on this connector (ex. dropping the camera with flash mounted)should it break, there are 4 screws to replace this part, in theory (I have not seen how much this part costs).

the overall finish of the unit is less shiny than the F43AM, and has a fine sandpaper feel. It appears to show my oily fingerprints more. How's that for making your gear truly yours? (hah)

the flash unit has increased in height slightly from the F43AM, though when mounted on the newer Sony cameras, it becomes much lower from not having to use the adapter. There is a much improved lower center of gravity with the F43M on the A99 than the long neck contraption that was the F43AM with adapter. (see my uploaded pictures for a comparison and how this flash looks atop the A99 with 24-70 Zeiss)

Differences with the F60M

this unit's larger brother, the F60M had many reported issues of overheating, and only after a handful of near-full power flashes (granted GN60 is pretty powerful), when it would go to the bleachers for several minutes of cooling down. I wanted to like the F60M though this factor and the increased heft ultimately made me wait for a replacement for the F43AM. I wanted to make sure that this part of the Sony DNA (sorry, couldn't resist!) didn't trickle down to the F43M and so I test fired in manual mode1/1 full-power shots as fast as I could basically whenever the amber light lit, indicating the flash had recycled, approximately every 3 seconds until it overheated and it was able to do it straight for 36-38 full-power shotsfor a total of around 2-3 minutes of flashing. Not bad and I don't see this ridiculous scenario happening in the real world!

the F60M has probably the world's most user-friendly LCD with software that looks like it was built from the ground-up for it with graphical bars for flash exposure compensation and the LED light level which works well with its control wheel; unfortunately the F43M does not inherit this (and continues to use the directional arrows) and the LCD looks slightly revised (mainly with the addition of the FEC adjustment) from the F43AM's older, but still straightforward interface.

the F60M's LED light is on the flash head which allows it to be tilted in all sorts of angles for creative use, whereas the F43M's LED light is fixed on the base. The F60M also has a snap-on diffuser and an amber-gelled attachment for the LED light, which the F43M doesn't have room for.

the F60M is Sony's only current flash unit that can be attached with an external battery pack, which some wedding photographers consider a must-have.

the F43M doesn't come with a STO-FEN-like diffuser nor does it come with an adapter for backwards-compatibility with older Sony cameras.

unless the F60M I tried at Sony's booth at a B&H event was abused, this F43M feels much more solid and better built

Price-wise, it is a little on the high side. At $400, this is currently a bit more than the F43AM, which I thought was perfectly priced at around $300 when it was released. It's easy to justify this expense should you need a good bounce flash solution and know you would be using it often, however. Every serious shooter should have one for indoor photography. Acquiring a bright lens would get you more light, however gives you no control over how shadows are cast on your subjects and areas of focus (ex. needing F/5.6-8 so subjects are not blurred) will become much more limited. Also, as lighting and composition are the 2 main components of great photos, this is an outstanding tool for supplying most of the lighting portion.

In summary, unless you must have the F60M's features and aren't concerned of its overheating tendencies, and feel just as I do, that the benefits of this flash outweigh the size and weight advantage of the F20M/AM, I can wholeheartedly recommend the F43M for all Sony shooters with recent cameras (starting with the A99, A58, NEX6, RX100 II, RX1, etc.). The (Sony HVL-F43AM Sony Alpha System HVL-F43AM Flash Unit for Alpha DSLR)

remains a great choice for those with the auto-lock shoe, unless you have plans to acquire a newer Sony camera, in which case I would then get the F43M and Sony's ADP-AMA adapter. Sony appears to be committed to this new MIS interface across all their cameras and this update to the F43 has been done very well.

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