First of all, all powerfilm folding panels come with an RA-2 adapter, which connects to the marine connector provided on the panel, this adapter provides a CIG-LITER (AUTO DC JACK). (This is hardly mentioned in most literature.)
This is only one of many powerfilm panels I have purchased. I ALWAYS test them prior to gifting them, both to check that the gift is functional, and to develop a sense for the quality of the flexible PV technology. These panels have produced every single rated watt, and perform gloriously in low sun conditions (20-30% in full cloud cover). There are no other true comparitive competions available. (Brunton, etc which are heavier, bigger, and more expensive, as well as less rugged). I have purchase all of the models available not just the 20w unit, and I find the 20 & 30w to be the most useful, however I find myself never leaving home without the 60w one since it will power my laptop directly (with no adapters!) even in cloudy conditions. And even the 60w is the size of the laptop, not a bad rig. (The 20W here is the size of a typical notepad!) On all of the models, I used a sharpie (silver/black/red depending on panel fabric color) to indicate the "fold lines" otherwise it is a challenge to fold back the way it was manufactured without spending some time figuring it out each time. So I would suggest to Powerfilm company= Put a hint of how to close it up imprinted on the fold lines, and also= offer the marine connector as an accessory so we can make our own ends! And THAT my friend is an EXCELLENT product which prompted my review, normally I only leave reviews for terrible products to warn away buyers, but this time I decided POWERFILM is company I should invest in! (great quality and true ratings!)
Further note: The panel outputs above ratings even when laying on a hot van roof (tested at 157F) in full direct sun exposure on a 111F (not exaggerating) Texas "heat wave" summer day, however even though it achieved decent rating in such conditions, it is still derated from it's actual ability if the panel is kept cool, so I suggest putting the panel on the grass, a table, or suspending it so that the breeze can cool it underneath during such extreme conditions. (not on hot pavement!) The thermal derating factor is less with this panel than others tested, but it is the difference between the laptop charging properly or cycling (my laptop tested at 20.8Watts MIN requirement). It is similar to the video on YouTube where the output decreases after the panel is SHOT FULL OF HOLES with a pistol several times, but still outputs nicely (Heat has the same effect without the bullet holes!). In my case the borderline is the rated value of 20watts. (In such a case I use either a 30w panel, or a combination totaling 30w or better, but it is something to be aware of that is inherent with ALL solar panels of all kinds...)
Occasionally you will find these panels for around $10/watt on Amazon. YOU SHOULD NOT MISS THE CHANCE TO OWN THEM IF YOU WERE INTERESTED ENOUGH TO READ THIS ENTIRE REVIEW.
Enjoy the great outdoors while we still the "liberty" to do so!
Now a "lesson" in solar power: (not "review" related, but here goes...)
Your device (lets assume a laptop for discussion) will have a WATT rating, there will be a label on the adapterhowever that rating is for the AC ADAPTER, your laptop will be lesser in reality. So the best way to find out is to use a DC ADAPTER (Automobile 12volt to PC power voltage they are as low as $15). The reason for this is because you will not need an inverter (or the extra wattage to power it). You can use a DC AMP METER(google how to do that if you do not know) to determine the ACTUAL current, lets say 1.1amp at 14.5volts for example is what you measure. The voltage printed on the adapter/laptop will not need to be measured. So the WATTAGE is VOLTS x AMPS (14.5x1.1) = 15.95WATTS. Now you know a 20W panel will suffice for this device (with 4 watts "left over" to use a splitter to charge a cellphone or whatever!). The values are taken from a little netbook, not a full sized laptop which consumes nearly exactly 20W. TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION the laptop may not charge AND run at the same time, so it may require charging up while OFF, and RUNNING when the battery is charged up, or RUNNING with the battery removed (pray for no clouds!). The reason for this is that when the battery is charging it will consume "extra watts" typically around 28W to CHARGE & RUN simultaneously. (You can test for this too by measuring when charging & running!) Charging RADIOS and CELLPHONES are not as complicated since they typically charge at constant rates. Using battery chargers (AA/AAA etc.) offers no real technical challengeBut there is VERY little online help for learning about portable PV systems. I am certain IF powerfilm started a blog for this it would help. I would offer a great many suggestions that will not fit in this Amazon review department. Powerfilm would sell many more of these if people had a way to learn this stuffI know this because everyone I introduce to this technology buys it for themselves.
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