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First Impressions:
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The Fuji X-M1 is an excellent camera. As the cheapest Fuji interchangeable lens camera, I was looking at the X-M1 as an introduction into the Fuji X system. This Fuji APS-C X sensor receives a lot of hype, and this camera does not disappoint. The build quality seems good and feels durable. The overall size with the kit lens is also much smaller than I had initially thought from pictures.
Out of camera JPEGS (with some slight tweaks) are very good. I'm glad that I don't have to spend as much time massaging RAW files in Lightroom.
If you're considering the following cameras, I think the X-M1 is better than the following:
* Olympus E-PM2, E-PL5.
* Fuji X20
* Sony NEX-F3, NEX-3N, NEX-6
* Panasonic GF5
The OM-D E-M5 has some unique features that may make it better for you (exceptionally good IBIS, weather sealing, EVF).
Pros:
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+ EXCELLENT out of camera JPGs
+ EXCELLENT control using dual dials
+ Useful Q menu
+ Easy to use regular menu
+ Good build quality
+ Fast focusing
+ Good fill-flash
+ Tiltable bounce flash
+ Fast operation
+ Customizable (I'll cover some tips later in the review)
+ Tilt Screen that can still be seen in sunlight
+ Small size
+ Custom settings on the mode dial
Cons:
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No EVF/OVF
WiFi apps don't allow control of the camera
WiFi is pretty poor on both Android and IPhone.
No sweep panorama
No built in level (c'mon Fuji this camera BEGS for a horizontal level)
Recommended Tips and tweaks:
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* For faster AF, set the AF box size to the maximum and turn off the AF assist light.
* I recommend setting Sharpening +1 in any film mode.
* Fuji allows you to specify your tone curve. I prefer the flat look so I set Shadows -1, Highlights 0.
* If you want punchy, contrasty images, set Shadows +2, Highlights +2.
* For creamy noise free images to share on Facebook, set Noise Reduction to +2
* Be careful with Auto-ISO and DR. Auto-ISO at 6400 is useable, but DR400 will introduce noise into shadows. I stick to ISO3200 with DR200, or ISO 6400 with DR100.
* WiFi: Manual setup for PC Autosave is easier than "Simple" setup. I couldn't get "Simple" to work. "Manual" worked just fine.
* WiFi: If you use the Android app, remember you must follow the instructions on the camera EXACTLY. The modes are not interchangeable. Otherwise, the camera won't be able to connect to your device. I think Fuji can fix this and make their app more 'robust'.
Recommended settings:
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* Portraits: Astia, Sharpening +1, Shadows -1, Highlights 0, Colors 0, Auto ISO 3200, DR200
* Landscape: Velvia, Sharpening +1, Shadows 0, Highlights 0, Colors +1, ISO 400, DR200
* Everyday: Provia, Sharpening +1, Shadows 0, Highlights 0, Colors 0, Auto ISO 3200, DR200
* Dramatic B&W: BW, Sharpening +1, Shadows +2, Highlights +2, EV Comp -2/3, Auto ISO 3200, DR200
vs. Sony NEX (NEX-F3 and NEX-6)
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The Fuji X-M1 blows the NEX series away. Focusing on the Fuji is faster and far more accurate. The NEX-6 focuses faster than the NEX-F3, but both are still slow compared to the Fuji X-M1. Even more important, the NEX has a tendency to focus on the wrong thing. What I mean is, you can have people in the foreground (the subject) and the NEX will choose to focus on the trees in the background. I have no idea why. The NEX-6 has a very nice EVF which the X-M1 does not have. The NEX-F3 (and replacement NEX-3N) allow you to flip the screen 180 degrees for ''selfies''. The Fuji menu is significantly easier to navigate and the Q menu makes it quick to change settings, if you need to. [As a side note, the NEX menu is incredibly frustrating for advanced users. Options are under submenus, and you need to get back to the root level to change into submenus. Furthermore, if you customise your camera buttons in PASM, those customizations don't carry into some of the other modes, like auto mode. So when you switch modes, the experience of using the camera is frustratingly inconsistent. You'll find that the buttons you customized have reverted back to their default settings. I couldn't tolerate it.]
The NEX does have very nice Auto, Intelligent Auto, and Superior Auto modes which make it easy for beginners. But for advanced users, I would recommend the X-M1 over the NEX.
vs. Micro Four Thirds (u43)
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I highly recommend the Fuji X-M1 over *most* of the u43 cameras. It's significantly better than than the E-PL5 and GF5. However, the newer Olympus u43 cameras (OM-D E-M5, E-PL5, E-PM2, and E-P5) have very fast autofocus. In outdoors bright light, the X-M1 is nearly as fast. In indoor low light, the Olympus is significantly faster. Keep in mind that the Fuji X-M1 is still faster than the NEX in both conditions. The X-M1 beats the u43 is in image quality. The GF5 shots were only useable up to ISO800, and I recommend shooting at ISO400 or lower. The E-PL5, I kept to ISO1600. The X-M1 can easily go to ISO6400 with better quality. Although the E-PL5 and GF5 have touch screens, I find that I don't miss it. I had too many accidental shots with the touch screen enabled on the E-PL5, so I usually turn the touch screen off. Note that Olympus has a fantastic touch to shoot feature that makes it great for stealthy street shooting if you tilt the LCD up. For people who really want a touch-to-shoot touchscreen, nothing can beat the Olympus.
The Olympus cameras also tend to produce a very "yellow" image in indoor tungsten light. The Fuji colors are much more natural and realistic. In outdoor light, the Olympus is fine.
However, if budget is important, keep in mind that you can buy an E-PM2 or E-PL5 with Olympus 45mm f.18 for the same price as the X-M1. The Olympus combo will allow you take wonderful street "cinematic" shots or portraits of your friends and family.
If budget isn't a concern, I recommend the X-M1.
vs. OM-D E-M5
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This deserves its own subsection because the OM-D is an excellent camera that can do things that many other camera's cant. First, the OM-D has the best IBIS of any manufacturer. The E-PL5 IBIS, Canon IS, Nikon VR, Sony IS, and Fuji IS can't compare. The OM-D 5-axis IBIS is so good, it allows you to do things that you simple can't do with another camera. You can take handheld "macro" (close focus on the kit lens) video. You can shoot sharp images at 1/2 second, and relatively sharp at 1 second. Seriously. It's THAT good. That's why I can't say with certainty that the X-M1 is decisively better than the OM-D. The OM-D AA filter is relatively week, and you can get very sharp shots. This is especially evident when used with a quality lens like the Olympus 45mm f1.8 or Panasonic 25mm f1.4. Furthermore, the OM-D can be easily customized (you can even directly control your curves!) and the kit lens 12-50mm has a built in function button that allows you to set it to do useful things like 2x zoom. So in one lens, you can have 12-100mm (with 35 film equivalent of 24mm 200mm). That's impressive.
Plus, the OM-D E-M5 has weather sealing. Although I don't use my cameras in inclement weather, it was nice knowing that the beach, dust, and rain didn't affect the OM-D.
Although the X-M1 can produce better image quality than the OM-D, the OM-D has so many features, that it needs serious consideration. The IBIS is amazing and will allow you to do things that you simply can't do with other cameras.
Between the OM-D and the X-M1, I don't know if the X-M1 is decisively a better camera. It's better in some ways and the OM-D is significantly better in other ways. I would recommend that anyone shopping for a u43 camera should consider the OM-D. Yes, it's much more expensive, but it'll give you so much flexibility and opportunity to do things that you normally wouldn't be able to do. Plus, the OM-D is built very well it feels like small Tokina tank.
vs. Fuji X20
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I wasn't impressed with the Fuji X20. I returned it. The small sensor didn't produce good enough results and I felt it was only good to ISO800. The focusing was equivalently fast between the X20 and X-M1, maybe slightly faster in the X-M1. For a few hundred dollars more, the X-M1 is clearly the better buy. For a pocketable camera, the Sony RX100 I/II is probably a better camera than the X20. (I never owned an RX100 though).
I recommend the X-M1 or RX100 for slightly more money.
vs. DSLRS
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Keep in mind that DSLRS can do things that the mirrorless cameras simply can't do (yet). Continuous focusing on a DSLR is much better than even the single shot focusing on the OM-D. If you want to take pictures of moving subjects, you need a DSLR. That being said, some entry level DSLRs (ie: Canon T3i, Nikon D3200) don't have as much direct control via dual dials as the X-M1. I'm not going to debate DSLR vs mirrorless cameras in this review both have their advantages.
The main benefit of the entry level DSLR is that they are more affordable; and paired with a cheap prime like a 50mm 1.8 or Nikon's 35mm 1.8, can teach you a lot about aperture and depth of field. You'll need to spend much more on Fuji's system to be able to do something similar. Overall, I think a DSLR offers a better introduction into photography.
vs. D90
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You'll need to get a D90 (or better, like the D7000 or D7100) to get dual dials. (Sorry, I don't know the equivalent Canon range). The JPGS from the X-M1 are better than the out of camera JPGs from the D90. I only use the D90 up to ISO1600 and even that requires extra work with DFine after Lightroom. The X-M1 can go to ISO6400 with better quality. The X-M1 requires fewer tweaks then the D90 in Lightroom.
vs. D600
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85mm on an FX camera is beautiful. The X-M1 can't replace something like a D600.
Overall vs. the competition
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If you're considering an NEX or u43 kit, keep in mind that neither those nor the X-M1 are pocketable. You'll likely carry those cameras in a bag. If you want something truly pocketable, you're probably better off looking at an RX100. So if you'll be using a bag anyways, I would recommend the X-M1 over the NEX or any of the smaller u43 cameras.
I hope this review helps you decide on the X-M1. Enjoy the camera!
Avi
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